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[mike31154]

It's fine to offer a system with a booster pump.... but if your house water pressure is better than 60-70 psi, you don't really need one. In my area the water pressure delivered to the house is between 110-120 psi and the plumbing code calls for a PRV in the house to regulate/reduce that to the standard 60 or so psi for home plumbing. By tweaking the PRV I have 100 psi going into my no name RODI system. Why would I want the added complexity & expense of a booster pump?

As I mentioned in my previous post, a little pre planning & research into what comes into your house can save you from spending extra money you don't need to. I suppose I should add that my no name system was purchased from an outfit in Ontario that's no longer in business. Despite that, it's still a great set up for my needs with standard 10 inch, clear pre filter housings, a DOW filmtec 75gpd membrane that's still going strong after almost 4 years & thousands of gallons produced with a tapwater TDS of approx 210-220. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to put together (or design if you wish) a RODI system using generic components that have already been designed & have been on the market for many moons. It really boils down to the quality of a single component, the membrane itself & possibly the carbon block.

I'm not really a fan of the auto flush feature either. I flush manually before & after each production run & that's served me very well over the years. Auto flushing too often uses up your carbon while wasting water down the drain. I've also found that at each flush, there is a TDS spike which takes a few minutes to get back down. All the while, your DI will be working harder to give you that 0 TDS you want for your aquarium.