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#1
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![]() Thank you to everyone for the suggestions! I knew I was in the right place to get some ideas. I'm leaning towards building a simple table on the right along with a short platform under it to allow for the 70 to go underneath. I agree that the larger tank has both merits and disadvantages. I don't have the room to make the table fold up but I'll try to find a way to be creative with the build. One of the challenges is that the floor slightly slopes to the drain and I will have account for that in the design. I plan to keep the the 20g as the main QT for now though.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#2
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![]() Been working on the tank when time allows...amazing how many jobs come up when you move. New Vertex RODI is up. Great little unit but noisy and I can't figure out why. QT tank is up. Salty but nothing in it except for water and pumps to circulate.
Today I started making my first 100g of water. No leaks so far...but we'll see in the morning when I go to move water from the fresh bin to the salty one. My plan is to fill the sump and then both bins with fresh water, then start moving it through the setup to get it upstairs to the display. I haven't finished plumbing upstairs yet, but I'm not too far off.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#3
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![]() What silicone is best for the odd plumbing fix..ie...at apvc joint you can't get to
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#4
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![]() if it is a pvc joint i would be more inclined to hit it with some more pvc glue the with some silicone. Unless you have already tried more solvent or if the gap is really big.
option 2 is: get you kids with their tiny little hands to get in and cut it apaart and re glue it for you ![]()
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Nick |
#5
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![]() haha...it's joint where the PVC screws into my fresh water barrel. It drips every now and then when the pump is pulling water from the barrel. It doesn't when it's just sitting under the water pressure of the tank itself.
I also now hate unions. Is there a perfect way to know they are good. Two of mine leaked and they couldn't be in worse locations to reach. I've redone them and they are fine now but I put a union into everything...go knows how many leaks I will have!!!! It scares the bejesus out of me and all I've got going is my water change station.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#6
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![]() With unions on plastic storage tanks or anything non breakable i just tighten them real tight(like until rubber bulges on gasket and plastic looks all distorted). On glass i just go hand tight then a couple wrench turns. Generally if you have a deceint quality union it should be pretty well sealed at slightly past what you can do with your big strong hands.
or you could just order a can of flex seal from the infomercial and coat everything. Did you know that they put a screen door on the bottom of a boat and flex seal made it float ![]()
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Nick |
#7
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![]() I need advice on a plumbing issue. I just don't seem to be having much luck with plumbing lately so I think its better to ask what people think.
On my return, I divide the 2" line into a closed circuit 1" run that goes over my eurobrace. T's then push the water down through holes in the bracing at the far end from the overflow. I have put unions on both sides of these runs in case I need to remove them. Herein lies the dilemma....where the holes go down, I would like to glue in 90's with threaded ends so that my educators can screw in and help push the water back towards the overflow. If I glue these in, I will not be able to get the "loop" off via my unions anymore...in fact they will be permanent. Is this the right thing to do? Any alternatives that make more sense? Already tonight I over tightened the the threaded PVC into my blo-hole pump and cracked the union at the pump. Aaargh!
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
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