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#1
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I like an inline TDS meter in one place - between the RO membrane and the DI resin so that I know how much TDS is going to the DI. This is a luxury though, and not needed. I like to use a handheld meter for product water. Make sure that any TDS meter that you buy is either self-calibrating when you dip it in calibration solution or it has manual calibration. All TDS meters are "factory calibrated" but do not buy a TDS meter that you can't calibrate afterwards because the calibration will wander off.
IF you buy a dual TDS meter, spend the extra few bucks to get the HM Digital DM2 as it has dual calibration where the DM1 has only one calibration screw for both probes which often do not read the same, so it is impossible to calibrate both probes properly. Or make sure whichever brand it is that if it has dual probes it also has dual calibration. The ones Greg linked to above are both the DM1. I have fond that I can't rely solely on the color of color changing DI resin because I found the outside of the DI resin would all change color and I would dump it out to find the core of the DI resin still had plenty of color! So now when the color on the outside is all changed that's my red flag and I start testing product water until it shows 1 ppm, and then I change the DI resin. In my case, the DI resin often last another 4 months or so after the outside portion has changed color. What is the TDS of your tap water? Phosphate level? Chlorine/chloramines? Last edited by Myka; 01-03-2013 at 02:09 PM. |
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#2
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I'd like to know if I'm looking forward to some kind of failure I currently own the DM-1 and the SM-1 |
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#3
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What info do you want? Google for owner's manual for the DM2 to compare. Have you tried calibrating yours yet? Put both probes into the same glass of tap water and see if they read the same. If they do you're lucky (for now), if they don't read the same then there is nothing you can do to get them to read the same. Then you need to set the lower reading one to the calibration solution (usually 342 ppm), and if the second one then reads 3 ppm higher you just have to remember that 3 ppm on the second one means "0". That's about all you can do.
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#4
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I wasn't expecting to hear issues
I've never had to cal mine since I bought them Looks like I'll have some fun to deal with in the near future ... Oh, and thanks for the info Last edited by gregzz4; 01-03-2013 at 02:33 PM. |
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#5
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Thanks again Mindy for the info
Every day there is something to learn about Sucks that it's about my own gear |
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#6
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I have a dual TDS meter, one shows after RO and before DI, and the other shows after DI. When the RO tds starts to go up, it tells me it is time to flush the membrane. My final RO/DI water is normally 0 or 1. When it goes up it is time to change DI. When flow slows down, it is time to change the sediment and carbon filters.
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#7
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Pretty much what I was trying to say about TDS meter locations
Do you have a pressure gauge ? |
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#8
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What do you mean you've never had to? How long have you had the meter? You should calibrate every 3-6 months.
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#9
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I thought they were good for a year |
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