Ideas for LED supplementation

[Reefer Rob]

Have you tried your old halides over your tank to see if you still like them? I think you'll find them a little bland after LEDs.

LEDs are so new, with very little real information for a reference, that it makes it challenging to get them dialed... but that's the fun of it isn't it.

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by Reefer Rob

Have you tried your old halides over your tank to see if you still like them? I think you'll find them a little bland after LEDs.

LEDs are so new, with very little real information for a reference, that it makes it challenging to get them dialed... but that's the fun of it isn't it.

Rob, I guarantee I'd still like them, I've loved Radiums for 10 years. I actually find the color separation from LED annoying, you can see it on the sand and the corals. I think some higher end units reduce that, but I have not seen a LED not do this, SOL, Radion, or Vertex. This includes DIY units I've seen with tons of LEDs installed.
With the SOLs, there is nothing to dial in. It's blue and white, or some mixture of that combo. The units are missing something that tweaks a particular pigment, not sure if it's red, UV, purple or anything else. Radions affect the corals the same way, so it likely isn't red or green, or maybe it just needs more than is provided.

Don't get me wrong, the LED gives of great light and color, and my blue and purple pieces are all gorgeous, and the ramping for sunrise/sunset is a fab feature. I do really like the lights and would have to seriously consider changing back to MH due to all the good features. I'm probably just going to have to accept that some pieces aren't going to have the color they had. I may be able to supplement with different color spectrum strips, not sure. Some type of T5 addition maybe?
I also have to consider that if I went back to MH, my wife would probably stab me in my sleep, not somewhere I really want to go

[Delphinus]

Glad I'm not the only one who finds the colour separation a bit of an issue. Every LED tank I have seen has had this and once I notice it, no matter how nice everything else may be, I get a little disappointed feeling. It's sort of like being in a Star Trek holodeck and thinking everything is nice and perfect in my little fake imaginary world then noticing one of the holo-emitters is on the fritz and you see these little staticy spark things zapping around and in behind you see the black wall of the holodeck itself and you realize "Oh yeah, right. This is not real. Kind of a bummer." With a well done reef tank when you really focus in on it there is this "suspension of disbelief" (it's not just for fiction apparently) where all of the cool technology in the world that is supporting the main cast, is just a supporting player and basically irrelevant so long as it's doing its job - it's what's in the tanks that is the draw for me to this hobby - the rest are just tools to get a job done.

I wonder how the multichip pendents compare though. These still intrigue me. I still would like to try a few and replace one of my Radiums at a time and then run in parallel to see how they stack up. I'm saving my pennies for this at this time, although it probably means I'm pre-empting a possibly more-better investment of a controller (yeah I run everything old skool still) in the meantime.

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

Glad I'm not the only one who finds the colour separation a bit of an issue. Every LED tank I have seen has had this and once I notice it, no matter how nice everything else may be, I get a little disappointed feeling.

I wonder how the multichip pendents compare though. These still intrigue me. I still would like to try a few and replace one of my Radiums at a time and then run in parallel to see how they stack up. I'm saving my pennies for this at this time, although it probably means I'm pre-empting a possibly more-better investment of a controller (yeah I run everything old skool still) in the meantime.

My DIY build uses 3 rows (9 per row) of 10 watt multi chip LEDs spaced about 4 & 1/2 inches apart. Mixture of cool white, white, blue & royal blue. I use no optics & the LEDs are just over 6 inches above the water. I see no disco effect or colour separation with this configuration. Fixture has been up & running since beginning of April this year. I only have a few SPS & they're doing fine, although they're not exactly prize colonies. Switching from MH/T5HO combo doesn't appear to have affected the growth rate or look of my SPS pieces. LPS, softies & other livestock are doing great. No way I would consider going back to the MH/T5 fixture.

If I had it to do again, I might go with fewer, larger multi chip LEDs with optics, hung higher above the tank. Mainly due to simplicity and less wiring etc. I'm certain that the single chip 3 watt LEDs on stars will eventually be phased out & eclipsed by fixtures with the larger multi chips such as those on some Orphek & Kessil models. Multi colour, multi chip LEDs are already available & development is underway on chips that are more specific to reef aquarium needs with the colour mix. Since the different colour LEDs are closely packed together on a single chip, colour separation is virtually eliminated. The biggest drawback at the moment is that a single 100 watt or larger multi chip is pretty costly & if you cook it, you'll be out a few $$$s.

A certain Mr. Wilson who owns a reefing shop in Ontario & posts regularly on RC is at the forefront of this type of development having had a multi chip custom designed for some pendants he built. A tank in his shop is lit with these pendants running large multi colour, multichip LEDs. Says it's a bit too blue for something he'd hang over his tank at home, but apparently it's a look folks are attracted to when they walk into a shop? Below is the photo from his photobucket album.



So yeah, for the patient folks out there, won't be long & more choices for custom colour multi chip high power LED pendants should be hitting the shelves. As mentioned, Orphek, Kessil & several other manufacturers already offer fixtures of this type. Haven't checked the prices lately, but probably in line with the other high end players like EcoTech, AI, et al. Or if you want to tackle a DIY, many of the multi chips are readily avaible on fleabay & other online vendors. That's where I scored all my 10 watters.

[Reefer Rob]

I had no color separation with the LEDs 16" - 18" off the water, or since I removed the optics to reduce the intensity (and moved them down to 6")... but then I don't have sand.

I agree there are some missing spectrums, especially red in my case. I get no algae in the display at all, and almost no slime on the glass. Likely this is also effecting the corals.

I'll let you know what I think after I've added a few of Milads OCW LEDs.

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by Reefer Rob

I had no color separation with the LEDs 16" - 18" off the water, or since I removed the optics to reduce the intensity (and moved them down to 6")... but then I don't have sand.

I agree there are some missing spectrums, especially red in my case. I get no algae in the display at all, and almost no slime on the glass. Likely this is also effecting the corals.

I'll let you know what I think after I've added a few of Milads OCW LEDs.

Mine are about 6 inches OWL, and I can see separation in a few corals. Not a big deal. I have no algae either, although I never did. I have a bit of slime these days due to the mass blue clove die off, but that's my own fault.

I've asked him about those as well, I'd be interested in trying something. Not sure what thy are exactly though, haven't read that linked thread yet.

[Myka]

Brad, try raising the Sols up higher. Sols have 70 degree optics, Vegas have 80 degree, and Radions have 130 degree optics. So the Sols and Vegas have to be up higher than Radions to avoid the color separation aka The Disco Effect.

[Reefer Rob]

Originally Posted by Myka

Brad, try raising the Sols up higher. Sols have 70 degree optics, Vegas have 80 degree, and Radions have 130 degree optics. So the Sols and Vegas have to be up higher than Radions to avoid the color separation aka The Disco Effect.

Sols have 70 deg optics? Yikes! 6" is way too low. I had 80 deg and didn't like the look until I was above 14"

At a lower height I found I had "hot spots". Areas on the rocks where a coral would cook, and yet a coral a few inches away would look like it wasn't getting enough light. I took placing a few corals in those spots to convince myself it was actually happening, it seem impossible.

[Myka]

AI says: "How high above the water line should I mount my AI fixture? While mounting height is ultimately dependent upon your personal preference and aesthetic appeal, we would suggest 8-12 inches above the water line as the traditional mounting height. Mounting both higher and lower than the recommended heights can still deliver great growth characteristics; use a PAR meter if you have any questions on the actual light levels your corals are seeing."


I know many people mount them higher than that even...some as high as 24", most seem to like them around 12-14" height from what I've read.

[Doug]

Brad, you think the led,s have lower your evaporation rate that much? Is that in a hood? I have not had halides on my 30g but my 20 seemed to be about the same rate with either the leds or the halide. Mind you it was only a 150w over an open top.