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#1
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![]() I think the best question to ask over here is which salt are you using?
API ammonia will always show a slight green tinted yellow. Plus if you leave the test tube for way too long after mixing the two solutions, if will turn more green, a.k.a give you false reading (I guess the reagent just keeps on building ammonia over the existing ammonia in the water; not really sure about the chemistry since I don't know what compounds are the reagents). I think the best reading for ammonia using API is to do the color match within like a min or two. Maybe test the tap water directly to see if any ammonia is there? |
#2
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![]() Several test kits will read 0.25 to 0.50ppm of NH3 even with RO water. I wouldn't trust them.
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Brad |
#3
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![]() Wow, thanks for the replies.
I'll try to answer every question asked. My aquarium has been up and running for over 4 months. It was cycled using live rock and before I added anything I waited to get the OK from my LFS (the only one I trust in town). I didn't use any supplements to get it fully cycled. I have 2 types, Red Sea Salt (175 gal) and Instant Ocean Reef Crystals (160 gal). Both have been bought this summer (July/September). To mix I use a Hydor Pico pump and a heater to raise the temp. I use the API Tap Water Filter with fresh filters. Yep, when I test and I wait my salt mix shows up ammonia, but it does take a few minutes. The comment by mrhasan might be the reason. I might be allowing the test to falsify the data. It starts bright yellow and afterwards it becomes a greenish yellow (0.25). I.ve seen it reach 0.50 using the IORC. I've taken my water to several LFS and they to read ammonia. I've also tested with fresh tap water and the API test and it stays a perfect yellow. I don't get it. I went to a pet store that sell saltwater fishes and corals and I told the guy about the ammonia in the freshly mixed saltwater. He didn't seem to believe me, but he mixed up a batch and to his surprise, he too found his Red Sea Ammonia test turn light green (0.25). So far, the API and Red Sea test give a positive reading for ammonia in freshly mixed water. The only difference I can see with my tank and others is the amount of live rock that is present. I might not have enough. The 0.25 level is probably easily processed by the rocks in most aquariums, but since I have less it sticks around longer. I have a lot of base rock and I cheaped out. I might buy some new live rock and see what happens. I'm just afraid of a bloom boom and will kill everything in my tank. I hope that answers most of your questions. However, now I have one, what test should I use? API? Red Sea? Others? I'm using also a Seachem Ammonia Dial (bought it last night) to test my aquarium water. Last night after an hour it hadn't changed. Thnaks, Ren
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33G DT - 10G sump - Eshopps PSK-100H - Eheim Compact+ 3000 - CPR CS50 overflow - 2x Hydor 750 (not used) - 1x Vortech MP10ESw - Radion LED - 7x Hermit Crabs - 2x Peppermint Shrimps - 3x Astrea - 4-5x Nassarius (they spawned) - Zoas - Mushrooms - 37lbs of live rock - 56lbs of base rock |
#4
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![]() If your tank has been up 4 months, I'm guessing you're fine. Test for NO2/3 and see what values you get. If you had ammonia in the tank, your fish would show it.
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Brad |
#5
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![]() So I checked my parameters and they are all looking good. No more ammonia according to my API, Seachem and Hagen test. My Nitrites are 0 as well as the Nitrates. My pH was a bit low so I added some buffer to bring it up a .1, might need to check it tomorrow as well.
Ren
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33G DT - 10G sump - Eshopps PSK-100H - Eheim Compact+ 3000 - CPR CS50 overflow - 2x Hydor 750 (not used) - 1x Vortech MP10ESw - Radion LED - 7x Hermit Crabs - 2x Peppermint Shrimps - 3x Astrea - 4-5x Nassarius (they spawned) - Zoas - Mushrooms - 37lbs of live rock - 56lbs of base rock |
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