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#1
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![]() Hello All. I'm currently in the process of setting up my quarantine tank and need some advice. I have a 20Gal and all the basics including a fluval 105. My question is this. Should I run a cycled Qt or an uncycled QT? The fluval comes with carbon and biomax. I was thinking of placing the sponges and biomax in my sump and then add them to the filter. Another option would be to run the fluval amonia remover and carbon and not cycle the QT.
Does anyone else use a fluval canister or have experience? Not sure which option might work best. All suggestions are greatly appreciated. |
#2
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![]() I use a couple of HOB's for my qt and all I've ever done is keep my sponges in my sump until I need them. When I fire up my QT, they come out of the sump, into the HOB's and Bob's your uncle. I don't see why canisters would be any different.
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#3
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![]() Install your filter on your DT right now without the carbon/biomax
Run the filter on your sump to seed the floss/foam blocks The foam can always be rinsed when you perform WCs Your QT / OT ( observation tank ) does not need carbon, GFO, pellets, everything else you may run in your DT Neither does it need a UV filter or a Skimmer It only needs lots of water changes Be prepared to change the water frequently, sometimes as much as twice a day if you have a lot of fish in it The key is to keep an eye on your Ammonia. If you have high NO3, change 50-75% of your water right away Keep an eye on your ammo ... this will keep your fish alive .... Once your QT/OT is stable, it probably will only need a weekly WC of maybe 50%, but, .... Until it is stable / happy, you may need to perform many smaller WCs throughout the week to keep your kritters safe and happy Once your ammo is gone, watch your nitrites and test for nitrates This is not a primer for the nitrate cycle, so keep your eye on what you have to do ... ![]() |
#4
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![]() The best way is to have plenty of cured liverock in your sump and if you QT a fish you use that liverock in the quarantine tank. If you don't need to treat with copper, it will be enough to keep the QT tank healthy.
If you do need to treat with copper, you will need to remove the liverock and monitor ammonia, then do water change as you need. The only time you will need to treat with copper is if you get a fish with velvet. For brooklynella and ich, Seachem Paraguard work well and there is no need to remove the liverock, and no ammonia problem. I treat my fish with Paraguard for one hour dip on arrival, before putting them in the QT, then I treat with Paraguard in the tank for a few weeks, then I treat with Prazipro for a week. That's what I did for my copperband and he's really healthy 2 years later. Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#5
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![]() Thank you for the response but i think i hould clarify. I'm using the tank to quarantine new fish before puting them in my display.
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#6
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![]() my old qt tank consisted of a 15g tank, heater, ac hob filter and some lr.
and yes it was cycled before using. Sent from my galaxy S2 using tapatalk
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72 Gallon Bowfront Reef.. Hardware:2x250w Luminex Elite HQI Reflectors (Phoenix Hexarc Bulbs), Galaxy 2x250w Electronic ballast, Euroreef 130 Skimmer, Sedra KSP 7000 Retern... Live Stock: Pair of Hawaiian Flame Wrasse, Leopard Wrasse, Pink Streaked Wrasse, Pair True Percula Clowns, Potters Angel, African Flameback Angel, Orange Fin Tomini Tang, Yellow Assessor, Tailspot Blenny, Purple Firefish.. 45 G FW Asain Barb Community tank. |
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