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#11
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![]() Design #1, That's the way my tank is being done in the next 2-3 weeks, with eurobracing
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#12
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![]() #2 It looks longer.
If you choose #1 make the length 6 feet that way you can keep tangs. |
#13
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![]() i like #2 as that is how i am building my tank but on the long side 72"
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#14
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![]() Do you mean extend them, but not all the way to the ends? I'm going to have a tee and an elbow in there for each of the three drains, so I have to make sure there is enough room.
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#15
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![]() I like #1
In #2 If your return is under water like that you will need to also figure out a way to stop the syphon when the pump shuts off
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#16
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![]() I would use a lockline to move it to the surface. It will be higher than the water level (or right at it)
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#17
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![]() I like #2 better. Technically it should be stronger since you don't have a corner cut into the glass that will be a stress point(even though there's very little stress with 1" of water). Lots of people with #1 though that works great for them.
Love the size of both though, very wide. Will make a great reef.
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My 150 In Wall Build |
#18
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![]() i like design #1. only cause its pretty much exactly what i have. you can see pics in concept's thread (pics 11 and 12). it is 60x30x24h
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82418 |
#19
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![]() Numero Uno
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#20
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![]() I am going to throw a problem in here. design 1 has two inside 90 degree corners in the back pain, which are inherent stress points in cut glass. so in-fact tank 1 could actually be weaker on the back.
as for looks tank 2 will look much cleaner from the front and a coast to coast overflow is nice for a few reasons, better surface skimming and also because of the extra length it has more volume. the only issue I have is how are you doing your returns in number 2 my vote is for design 2 Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
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