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#1
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![]() Quote:
instead of 100% water change do 4 x 25% or 3 x 30% water changes with a day in between, it will be less harder on your fish and corals and you will still remove what you want to. cheers and if you need a hand just let me know it would be my pleasure ![]()
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#2
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![]() Quote:
Cyano is a battle. It won't resolve itself. It can be something you are doing... Such as way way over feeding or as mentioned, maybe your filters. To aid the process of removal, you must remove it manually. Personally, I used a baster and basted the rocks and corals daily and removed what I could by siphon or net. I started using ecobak pellets about 3/4 of the way through my battle.... And poof. Gone. It's beatable. But only if you are diligent. Don't let Denny come over. He has cyano. Lol. Joking.
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![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#3
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#4
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![]() If you need to remove a lot of water to move it, keep it in clean buckets, then put it back in the tank once moved. Like mentioned above, don't do a 100% water change. You'll **** everything off.
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#5
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![]() a TDS of 30 on your RO/DI in my opinion would not cause your problems. Many don't use RO, even myself I don't always. I am thinking it is from one or many other factors.
What is your feeding like, maybe too much food? Water movement, maybe not good enough? Livestock, maybe too much, along with too much food? There can be many factors, I personally don't think replacing your RO/DI filters will fix your problem, however it won't hurt, as you should be getting zero or near that for water export.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#6
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![]() oops, I've done 100% water changes and also use tap water with a TDS reading of 200...
As suggested there's probibly other causes, overfeading is usually the most common. Does your tank get natural sunlight in it? due for a bulb change?
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http://plentyoffishandcoral.proboards.com/index.cgi |
#7
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![]() I usually feed 1/2 cube of emerald entree a day, or 1 cube every two days. I also use Pacifica plankton. I have a yellow tang, coral beauty and a clown.
I'll plan on a few 30 % changes instead of the full meal deal. I'm wondering if when I built my scrubber the PVC glue wasn't fully set and leached out some toxins is why the corals are not happy right now as well. |
#8
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![]() you need to be rinsing your food before you feed and it looks like you also need to increase your flow in the tank, keeps things from settling too much.
I would also add a gfo reactor to the tank to remove some of the nutrients and manualy remove anything you can. It might take a few months but you can get it under control and then maintain it. Good luck - and hey Reefwars - nice of you to offer to come all the way from Bali to help a fellow out! |
#9
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![]() Quote:
what can i say, im sure he'd do the same ![]()
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#10
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![]() how old is the tank?...how much flow do you have?...how big is the tank and how many pounds of LR and or dry rock did you use?......how many fish and what flavor?.....are you straining/draining your frozen food?.....
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
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