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#1
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![]() there are guys local that can help if you want that and what you are asking here, sorry we never knew you were there having trouble, feel free to pm if youd like Id be happy to come take a look or bring some water over here to test ,help get all those parameters in check.
Brent
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CAD 22 brent |
#2
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![]() if your new in the hobby i would take bkelly up on his generous offer its much easier to get a grip on alot of the questions you have if theres someone in person to shoot questions too, then he can set you on the right track or help point out any potential problems you could have
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#3
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![]() Sent you a pm, cheers
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CAD 22 brent |
#4
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![]() Hi Jan,
When we moved the tank, we put everything in buckets as it was too heavy to move with the sand in it. I talked to someone at j & l and they said that I should have put new sand in after it was moved but that was more for phosphates I think. I was having algea problems but they are getting better now. I am so sad I lost my anenome and the other corals. I am hopeful that I can get things back on track. Good luck with your move! Leanne |
#5
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![]() Are you using RODI for water changes or tap water? If you decide to do another large water change, make sure you use pure water & let it mix with a powerhead & heater for 24 hrs, that will stabilze the pH.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#6
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![]() I think you may have fallen victim to old tank syndrome. All of the crap that was trapped in the substrate is throwing you a curve ball.
Since hindsight is 20/20, there's no point in kicking yourself. I'd do the recommended water changes. Do a big one, and then do smaller ones daily for a week or so. Try: -Using ro/di water if you have access to it. Otherwise try filtered (RO) water from a local purified water store. Purified water stores don't usually put water through a DI stage, so the tds may be above zero. -Water changes are going to be the only way to bring those levels down. A big WC followed by smaller daily WC's for a week won't hurt anything. -Stop worrying about pH and buffering your tank. Rule #1, ignore your pH (within reason), you'll sleep better at night (okay, maybe not #1, but you get the point). I haven't compensated for pH in over a year. It's too stressful trying to keep up with it. And it changes daily based on your photo period. According to my graphs (click on my signature below), my pH varied from 7.83 to 8.45 in the past 24 hours. Last edited by cwatkins; 02-02-2012 at 03:31 PM. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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Brad |
#8
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![]() Thanks for all the input from everyone. I did a 45 gallon water change on Friday and was hoping that would do the trick. I used Brent's test kit yesterday but it was an old one and told me I had almost no ammonia. My kit was testing positive so I went to the pet store today and they said the ammonia level was still at 6.1.
The fish seem to be doing ok except my cardinal hasn't eaten for awhile. Just wondering how much of a water change I should do tomorrow and each day after. The guy at the pet store said not to do another big one as it may start my tank cycling. I have another 40 gallons mixing. Leanne |
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ammonia, ph too low, tank not balanced |
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