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#1
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![]() Quote:
It will be roughly 30" tall and 8" diameter with a 6"diameter neck.Still working those numbers. For the pump it will most likely be a modified Laguna 2400 The volute size will be larger than stock one and I will be using stainless mesh. Last edited by eli@fijireefrock.com; 01-27-2012 at 03:47 AM. |
#2
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![]() Any thoughts or experience with this would be appreciated
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#3
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![]() BUMP
No one ever read above thread |
#4
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![]() I've seen these a few times, I saw one on reef central about 3 months ago, same guy did a kick a$$ DIY canister filter as well. I wish I could remember the link!
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#5
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![]() I hope some of the Links work if not it could be the server
ok Elias think about counter current for a good DIY what about this I would like to introduce what the proteins and other organic molecules are doing when they come into contact with an air bubble: ![]() Different Skimmer Designs: With all the different skimmer options out there, it's sometimes hard for the person new to the hobby to understand all of the "lingo" when it comes to skimmers. Basically, there's two main areas that are of focus when people talk about their skimmers: water flow and air injection method. With water flow, there's two general methods:
For air introduction, there's many methods. Four of the primary methods are:
By far the most efficient way to run a skimmer is in the counter current flow condition as it causes the bubbles to have a longer contact time with the water compared to the co-current flow condition. It was estimated by Escobal that some proteins take upwards of 2 minutes contact time with air to attach properly. Now when it comes to air introduction method, methods #2, #3, and #4 all use the pump powering the skimmer to introduce air into the skimmer at the same time the pump pumps water into the reaction chamber. While this works just fine, it does limit the user to not being able to independently control water flow rate through the skimmer and the air volume injected into the skimmer reaction chamber. With options #2-#4, if a person were to decrease the water flow through the skimmer the person would also decrease the amount of air injected into the reaction chamber. Option #1, however, is uniquely different from the other 3 methods as it *does* allow independent control over water flow through the skimmer and air flow rate into the skimmer. Because of this, counter current air driven skimmers are among some of the most efficient skimmers out there when designed properly. They are also some of the most energy efficient skimmers available. Many of the larger venturi, downdraft, and beckett skimmers require large energy hogging pumps to produce enough flow to suck air into the skimmer reaction chamber.
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#6
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![]() Thanx for the information Mike
for my build I am a little confused about the reasoning behind the need of different diameter chamber and neck comparing to the size of the pump,which I think will be using a laguna 2400 with a modified volute and using stainless steel mesh.Which I think if its done right it should pull out of max 100W near if not more 4000lph of air and about 8000lph of water. |
#7
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![]() Hmmm...I've never heard of using stain steel mesh...Interesting
I'm just tagging along here
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90 Gal mixed reef with a custom 40 gal sump, SWC Mini S skimmer, 8X56 Watt fan modded Tek, 2x2LF reactors, mag 12 return, Tunze ATO and a modded Tunze 6100 running on a DIY wave controller My TOTM thread http://www.reefersparadise.com/smf/i...?page=page4263 |
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