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#1
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![]() Quote:
Ha, I agree! |
#2
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![]() If there are fish/corals in it I do a 25% weekly water change otherwise it could go 2 or 3 months between water changes
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#3
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![]() Changed out the sponge filter for 2-3 lbs live rock. Much better. Can go a 5 days between water changes.
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#4
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![]() I just finished a cycle in my QT (fish is now in the display) running a 30gal tank, I did a 50% waterchange every 5 days (from the main tank) and dosed Amquel daily. I have about 5lb of live rock in the tank and I'm also using one of those seachem ammonia thingies and it never even registered ammonia. Perhaps your tank is a bit small? Maybe increase the volume of your waterchange, 5% doesn't seem like all that much?
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#5
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![]() I would not trust those disc detectors.
Do an actual test. If there is ammonia, use seachem's stability, or kordons AmQuel to control the ammonia. I am confiused though, is the live rock tank also a QT? if it is, it should not have rock in it. a QT tank should have just a basic sponge filter, or aquaclear for water flow, and no sand or rock. |
#6
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![]() I use the SeaChem Ammonia Alerts in my quarantine tanks. They are cheap and last a year. However, I find the numbers listed on the Alert to be pretty much completely useless. An actual test often shows ammonia to be 10x what the Alert says it is. I use the Alert as an alert, not as a test kit. If there is any color change on the Alert I take steps to detoxify the ammonia.
I like to use ChlorAm-X, but this is not available to most people. My second choice is AmQuel as it is twice as concentrated as Prime and half the price. I do not use any biological filtration means in my quarantine tanks. I choose to use PVC piping and a plastic plant (not fabric) to help the fish feel safe. Instead of relying on biological filtration which I find unreliable in a quarantine situation, I dose ammonia detoxifier/binder everyday (just enough to keep the color yellow on the Alert), and do 50% waterchanges twice a week to remove the bound ammonia. Running a quarantine tank this way is much simpler and easier. If you use live rock in the tank and the fish in quarantine breaks out with a disease that needs treatment you must either sacrifice the rock or remove it. Live rock is incompatible with many medications because it will absorb the medication and reduce the concentration in the water column rendering the treatment useless. Other medications with kill the biological bacteria in the rock and thus produce ammonia in the tank. So, if the fish needs treatment now you have to disturb an already stressed fish by altering his environment to remove the rock. So why not start with no rock to begin with? Running a quarantine as I described above requires no altering of the environment when medications need to be added. |
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