Plumbing// Lots of pictures to describe my plumbing

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by molotov

So I've plumbed my tank without cementing any of the fittings together. I was hoping to get some opinions or feedback to make sure I've done everything right before I cement everything. Below are some pictures with some of my comments.


I'm wondering how I can lower the tops of these caps so they're not sticking up way above the tank?



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you can get caps that will fit into your " t " on top of your durso, they are slip fit and then just drill a very tiny hole into the top.thats what ive always done for durso's looks good though man and cheers

[molotov]

Originally Posted by reefwars

you can get caps that will fit into your " t " on top of your durso, they are slip fit and then just drill a very tiny hole into the top.thats what ive always done for durso's looks good though man and cheers

I have the slip caps but I've decided to use threaded in case I ever need to service the standpipe. All I would have to do is unthread the cap and I'd be able to get inside the pipe. If it were sealed with a slip cap I'd have to cut the pipe or build a new one.

[parkinsn]

Can you shorten the pipe between the "T" and the Threaded adapter?

Why not get a threaded reducer for the top of the "T" and then your theaded cap? The cap is only for adjusting your air to the pipe. Looks like 1-1/4" pipe? Get a 1-1/4" to 1" threaded reducer change your cap size down to 1"?

Or just leave it all not glued. Get a slip cap. With 3 down pipes you will likely sell the tank before you have to service them. There is really no need to have it glued, if it leaks it will just leak back into the overflow and not your floor. Obviously glue below the BH.

What kind of servicing do you think your going to need to do? If something gets caught in the pipe, it will likely be at the valve which I assume will be partly closed. You have true union valves so you will be able to disconnest there anyway.

[molotov]

Originally Posted by parkinsn

Can you shorten the pipe between the "T" and the Threaded adapter?

Why not get a threaded reducer for the top of the "T" and then your theaded cap? The cap is only for adjusting your air to the pipe. Looks like 1-1/4" pipe? Get a 1-1/4" to 1" threaded reducer change your cap size down to 1"?

Or just leave it all not glued. Get a slip cap. With 3 down pipes you will likely sell the tank before you have to service them. There is really no need to have it glued, if it leaks it will just leak back into the overflow and not your floor. Obviously glue below the BH.

What kind of servicing do you think your going to need to do? If something gets caught in the pipe, it will likely be at the valve which I assume will be partly closed. You have true union valves so you will be able to disconnest there anyway.

So I'm going to do as Parkinsn suggested and get rid of the threaded cap and just do the slip cap. This will save me an inch; which is A LOT!!

Also I will probably not glue it so if I ever need to take a peek down there I can.

For the person that asked why I have valves plumbed to every standpipe it's so that I can test the fail safes. I will be able to create a scenario where if one pipe fails the other two will work. If two pipes fail I can safely rely on the emergency pipe. it's just so I can create different scenarios and make sure everything is working as it should. Peace of mind!

[Reefer Rob]

Why do you have shut offs on all your outlets? I would have 2 with no valve and 1 slightly lower (with no Durso and low enough to not cause a vortex) in the over flow with a valve to adjust the level. The 2 higher outlets are only in case the one with the valve clogs. Use all slip inside the overflow and seal with a couple of wraps of Teflon tape only.