DIY ATO, Anyone attempted this before?

[Nano]

thats a really good Idea, like those big coffee pots haha

[MKLKT]

Picture of the one I made here:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...t=76662&page=2

[sphelps]

Have done and seen similar ones for nanos but I think the system presents some issues for larger tanks requiring more water. I think if you have the space for a float switch either mechanical or electric it's a way better option. A simple mechanical float can often be found locally for around $10, then you don't need the air tight container which will honestly become a pain to deal with 2+ more times a week.

[msjboy]

My Cusinart SS-700C single brew Kcup has a very nice auto top off and float valve mechanism... if one is at the store, have a look at the large blue reservoir where the mechanism is for ideas for a DIY that actually looks nice.
The new large Red Sea Max tanks also now incorporate an ATO built in on the side at the back.. kinda cool.

msjboy

[Nano]

neat thanks for the tips guys! I have lots of room in the top of my stand I might build a shelf to hold 5 gallons or RO and have it serve as the ATO to my sump

[martinmcnally]

Thats a pretty good idea. Just remember to clean the intake airline every so often. I find that some of my air intakes like on an overflow vent or intake to an airlifter pump build up salt inside the line.

[Nano]

good point Martin, I'm sure the salt creep could cause some issues, but it all falls under general maintenance

[toytech]

Ive got 2 float switches wired in line with a aqualifter ( just cut into an extension cord ) . With 2 switches its snail proof if one fries theres still a backup switch and it was cheap $4 for floatswitches off ebay . If you get any kind of air leak with the bucket idea it will drain . Oh and everyone whos is paranoid about frying floatswitches with too much currant , an aqualifter draws 3 watts , so at 120 v thats only .04 amps , the switches are rated for 5 amps.

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by MKLKT

Picture of the one I made here:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...t=76662&page=2

If you read through to the end of MKLKT thread, you'll see my somewhat modified version of the gravity fed idea. I use a pressurized 7 gal glass wine making carboy to transport the top off water to my display since I can't elevate it above the tank safely & don't have a sump.

While nothing is 100% fail safe it makes sense to me that the fewer components there are in any system, the fewer things there are that can go wrong. A well thought out DIY ATO can be as safe or safer than any store purchased solution. The more components you add to a system, the more complex it becomes with additional failure scenarios & a better understanding of all the components is subsequently required. The what ifs suddenly become a lot more hazy to figure out.

My pressurized system is not pretty to look at sitting next to the display, but I could disguise it if I had the ambition to do so. My hang on skimmer is even uglier to look at. In any case, my DIY ATO has been working without issue for at least 3 years. If I had the gravity fed option I'd switch in a second, since I could lose a timer & air pump in the process. Two more things that could fail whereas on a plain gravity fed with mechanical float valve, realistically there is only 1 component that could fail & that's the valve. If you check it from time to time, that should never happen. I use my ATO to add calcium, alk & magnesium & the float valve has never shown any sign of gumming up. With pure RODI running through it every second bottle, any build up gets flushed thru pretty quick. The 7 gal carboy keeps my 77 topped up for 7 days. Lucky numbers!

EDIT: Forgot to add one thing. I've never felt comfortable cutting into an extension cord to DIY an ATO with electrical float switches. That just scares the crap out of me. Sure, the float switches may be rated to handle the current, but the bottom line is you now have the potential of 115 VAC sitting in your tank water. If there's ever a short in the float switch, you better have a GFCI that works. If you're going to go that route, use a relay to run the float switches with low voltage DC. The 115 VAC would be used to provide power to the pump & the control circuit through the float switch would be 12 VDC to activate the relay. A whole lot safer that way.

Like so type, not my graphic, but it's a dandy.



Pretty slick huh? But look at all the components. A failure of any one would cause it to no longer function. Now imagine if you will, elevating the top off container above the sump & controlling the flow with a simple mechanical float valve. Not nearly as many things to screw up & the added benefit is that the top off is an almost constant trickle. No waiting until the level in the sump drops to activate FS1 starting the pump & top off process. No electrical power or gizmos involved. To me, if you have the room, gravity fed is a no brainer.