![]() |
|
Portal | PhotoPost Gallery | Register | Blogs | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() It's been a few days... both dipped pieces are SPOTLESS. You can't find even a hint of green anywhere on them and all polyps are out. I wish I could safely dose the stuff direct to the display lol.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Awesome! Wonder if the dip would melt these nasty blue clove polyps growing on my zoas?
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
re: H2O2 Dipping - I've done (and plan to always do for new coral frags) H2O2 dips. Depending on the reason for the dip determines the amount of H2O2 and the amount of time the frag is dipped. I can tell you for sure that a dip of H2O2 will kill Bryopsis, GHA and a whole plethora of other nisance algae. I can't say one way or the other on Bubble Algae because I always pick it off outside of the tank then do a H2O2 dip. Here are a few pictures I snapped of before & after treatments: Before (Grande Palys) ![]() After (5 min dip in 50/50 @3%) ![]() The following day there were no sign of any nuisance algae and 3 months later it's still clean as a whistle. One thing I have started doing is trying to keep as much of the coral tissue as possible OUT of the solution. I'd got a piece of eggcrate in the dish and I will add the mixture only deep enough to cover the whole frag base to try and minimize long-term tissue damage with H2O2 exposure. Here are a couple of videos of the actual dip taking place (it's been a while) ![]() and here's the same frag disc but later in the DIP process ![]() and here you can see the next say any remaining algae is bleached and expiring. ![]() So from the above testing I decided many months ago that all new frags (if I can get the majority of the coral out of the solution) going into my tank will get a min of a 3 minute 50/50 @3% dip. It has worked wonders for me and my tanks. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Does anyone know if this would be safe for a candycane frag?
Sure seems like a simple and effective method provided you can access/remove the piece of rock. Thanks |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I did this exact treatment on a (Neon Green) CC frag. I kept the "Meaty" portion of the frag out of the mixture the best I could but some of the heads were submerged in order to get ALL the algae into the mixture. Just remember what works great in one tank may or may not work as well or at all in another. Trial and error will be your guiding light and as always YMMV.
|
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I read this!
![]() but you owe me nothing, just glad I could help.
__________________
_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() ![]() Its a realy awesome method, and I'm glad to hear its worked for so many, as well as helped your problem Brett! Hope your Zoo's come back stronger then ever! Don't be afraid to give them a second dip in a few weeks if you notice anymore algae or fungus or anything, they are fairly hardy from what I am learning, and will survive quick the beating.
__________________
I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Haven't tried this method but from what I have read on this thread, couldn't this method be used as an effective coral dip for new zoasthat you are introducing into your tank?
Also, couldn't this be used to a lesser degree as adip for the plug/rock base of an sps frag or the stalk of branching LPS like frogspawn? |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|