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#1
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![]() You should have success with either one... Pick one that fits your budget
![]() In case you need some reading material to aid in your decision, these articles may help. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/11/aafeature1 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/12/aafeature1 Last edited by staceyd72; 12-01-2011 at 04:34 PM. |
#2
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![]() taste the same to me
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#3
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![]() Quote:
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150 Gal Cichlid tank, 55 Gal Cichlid tank, 42 Gal Hex Tropical tank, 2 Fluval Edge Tropical tanks. And... 3 Miniature Schnauzers |
#4
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![]() I tried H2O for a few months because I was told that I would not have to dose anymore...wrong..I had to dose the same amount. So not only did I have to pay 32$ more for the H2O bucket but I had some zoanthids starting to shrink and melting. I switched to Reef Crystal and no more problem with my zoas and all my coral are happy.
I have been using Reef Crystal for about a year and will stay with it. I pay 56$ for a 160 gallons bucket vs 89$ for H2O and I get better results with RC.
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#5
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![]() you can also just grab instant ocean (RC is made by IO) and buffer it with calcium chloride + baking soda to bring the levels up. and it'll work just as well as RC at an even cheaper price.
$38/bucket of IO 2-3+ yrs supply of calcium and alk to buffer the water ($20) it'll buffer a good 3-4 buckets of 160g buckets salt is salt, IMO someone can argue that there's extra trace elements in the more expensive ones but unless we can test it for cheap we'll never be able to tell what those trace elements are. if RC or H20 are the only two you are looking at my vote is RC as well |
#6
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![]() One of my friends who is well known for her coral growing abilities has always used IO with great success.
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If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it! |
#7
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![]() You shouldn't need to add sodium bicarbonate to IO, but you will need to add magnesium and calcium! IO usually tests at 11 dKH for me, only 1150 ppm magnesium, and only 360-380 ppm calcium. My only real complaint about IO is the alkalinity is too high for my liking. I keep alkalinity in my reef 7-8 dKH, so if I do a big water change I get a big alkalinity swing. That was one of my main reasons for switching to H2Ocean. Even though the numbers of the H2Ocean are nicer I didn't notice any benefit in my reef after using it for 14 months. My reef is back on IO. I have tried most of the salts on the market, and I have never found my inhabitants to care which salt I used. That's the ultimate factor I think.
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#8
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![]() I mix IO and RC. As Myka mention IO calcium is around 360-380. RC calcium is about 450. mixed at 50/50 calcium comes out at 410 but Alk is still a little high for my liking at 11 dKH.
Warning: I have heard that mixing salts can cause "stuff" to precipatate out but so far IO and RC mix just fine. Oceanic salt is cheap, has a lower dKH but is also high in calcium. I may try mixing Oceanic with IO but the closest I can find Oceanic salt is in Bellingham. *I'm gonna try bringing 100lbs of white powdery stuff across the border and tell the gaurds it is for my fish tank |
#9
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![]() hahah!!!
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#10
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![]() This is the one issue I have with RC... the Calcium spike because as you said it tests at 450 (tests even higher for me). My 400 tested at Ca 480 and I've yet to begin dosing Ca due to this as levels are dropping much slower in 4x the volume.
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