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Old 09-09-2011, 09:10 PM
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My 4th is the di resin =)

Mine is RO membrane -> carbon -> 5 micron -> DI resin

I think... I get the first two mixed up...

Some people will have a 1 micron after the 5 etc. Some have 2 resin canisters. I've done great with this basic one tho.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:29 PM
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Oh my Brett, I hope they aren't in that order!

It all starts out with a TDS meter, go buy one ($15-30+) and test your tap water after allowing it to run on cold for a few minutes. You want fresh water, not stuff that's be sitting in the pipes for a day. If your TDS is around 300 ppm or less you can easily go with a 4 stage. If you have a lot of solids in the water that settle out when you pour a glass/bucket of water you may want to use two sediment filters.

Basic system is 5 micron sediment filter, 1 or 5 micron carbon filter, RO membrane, DI resin.

I would suggest you use either a 50, 75, or 150 gpd system and not a 100 gpd as the RO membranes are not as efficient and you will burn through DI resin. Pick an RO membrane that is 98% rejection (that's efficiency). That means if your TDS is at 200 ppm it will be at 4 ppm when it comes out of the RO, and the DI will take it down the last 4 ppm. DI will take out up to 20 ppm, but you will burn through it real fast.

Bulk Reef Supply makes great RO systems, including the build your own ones.
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Last edited by Myka; 09-10-2011 at 03:14 PM. Reason: Fixed mistake.
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:47 AM
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Yeah hadthe order wrong. However I have heard the 75 is more efficient than the 100. Either way I use the Dow filmtec. It's 98%.
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:15 AM
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One of my friends told me to look for one with a booster pump so it has a 1:1 ratio?
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314 gallon Drop Off Reef tank. 150 gallon sump. Bean Animal Overflow. Various Tangs, Angels, Triggers, Inverts, Corals, etc.

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=80379
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:25 AM
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Myka is bang on with getting a handheld TDS meter first to determine your source water TDS. Number two on the list before you commit to buy, especially something with a booster pump, is to get a pressure guage & check your water pressure. You'll want at least 60 psi to have the system work efficiently. If you're on city water, which I assume you are in Winterpeg, check your house for a PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve). This should be located not too far downstream from your main water shut off valve and is designed to protect your home's plumbing from supplier pressure variations/spikes. Most PRVs are adjustable, I have one & tweaked it up to provide just over 80 psi, take my chances with the home plumbing, so far so good. Anyhow, this may save you the extra cost & complexity associated with buying a booster pump.
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastlight View Post
However I have heard the 75 is more efficient than the 100. Either way I use the Dow filmtec. It's 98%.
Oh shoot Brett, I made a booboo, it's the 100 gpd that aren't 98%, you're right. Thanks for pointing it out.

In the end, it doesn't matter what the gpd rating is as long as it is a 98% rejection.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:59 AM
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bulk reef supply unit
Great unit over a year and a half , very happy with it
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