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View Poll Results: In consideration of Tank Crashes... | |||
My tank has suffered a full crash |
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20 | 13.33% |
My tank has suffered a partial crash |
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34 | 22.67% |
My tank has never crashed, but has potential problems |
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40 | 26.67% |
My tank is bullet proof |
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16 | 10.67% |
Crash caused by equipment failure |
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21 | 14.00% |
Crash caused by temperature deviation |
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13 | 8.67% |
Crash caused by electrical failure |
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13 | 8.67% |
Crash caused by system design flaw |
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7 | 4.67% |
Crash caused by water chemistry |
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15 | 10.00% |
Crash caused by low oxygen levels |
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8 | 5.33% |
Crash caused by disease or parasites |
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15 | 10.00% |
Crash caused by Old Tank Syndrome |
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2 | 1.33% |
Crash caused by New Tank Syndrome (rushing it) |
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6 | 4.00% |
The cause is not listed in this poll |
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13 | 8.67% |
The crash was completely out of my control |
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9 | 6.00% |
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 150. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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![]() Mine started when I purchased my Apex Controller. There was a problem with the sensitivity and it would constantly reset the EB8 so a heater became a chiller dosing pumps would run contsantly etc. etc. it would reset on randon days but always at midnight. so a lot of damage was done while I was sleeping. I finally went online with it and the rep from Neptune logged into my controller and fixed it up. It is a great controller and I've sworn by it ever since. I did lose almost all my SPS in the process, a bunch of inverts died, cyano outbreak to the point where I had to bake my rock to cure it. To make matters worst I transferred my fish to a tank without a controller, I had the temp set correctly in the holding tank with my Rena heater. That night the heater stuck on an I woke up with all my fish dead! Some of these I had for years, my large yellow Tang and Hippo Tang were the biggest dissappointment. The silver lining was my Maxima and Squamosa clams lived! Go figure. I'm a big fan of redundancy but I learned the hard way that it just takes a moment and it can happen to anyone.
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#2
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![]() As they say - there are two types of reefer's ------those who have had their tank crash and those who haven't -----------------yet!
I have had too many different issues and things go wrong I couldn't list them all. (especially since I don't know some of the causes)
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![]() Greg |
#3
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![]() Quote:
... and we're lucky to have wives who don't mind a little water on the floor! |
#4
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![]() I had a full crash caused by a design flaw which led to electrical failure which led to no flow and low oxygen levels. I also had a nano crash when a heater got stuck.
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#5
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![]() two partial crashes, one a SE bulb broke the outer casing and continued to work, irradiating one side of the tank with UV killing 3 fish and a multitude of corals.
Second crash was due to reefer stupidity (not listed, I selected temperature deviation): moving the tank at the end of the day (an all day move) and left the livestock on a cool concrete floor (it didn't feel all that cold at the time) while I took a dinner break. Then put the corals into the tank without matching the temperature. The colonies in the coolest water started to RTN and caused a cascade effect that took 2 weeks of massive waterchanges to get the ammonia down to an acceptable level where it wouldn't cause issues for the rest of the corals. I lost most of my larger colonies, didn't lose any fish though (they were in an insulated cooler).
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. Last edited by christyf5; 06-21-2011 at 04:48 PM. |
#6
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![]() One partial crash: An electric fan fell apart and into the sump, which tripped the
GFCI. Fish & critters came out ok but lost many corals. Not entirely sure if the problem was the oil in the fan getting into the water or a good jolt before the breaker tripped; or maybe a combination of both.
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225g reef |
#7
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![]() My tank crashed due to the recirculation pump (from the sump to the DT) failing overnight. The oxygen levels in the DT fell and all the fish died. I think most crashes happen as a result of equipment failure. Cheap equipment is more prone to failure. For instance, many opt for cheaper pumps, which fail as they have a big demand on them (running 24x7 for years at a time). Cheap heaters will get stuck on and cause overheating. Skimmers overflowing will empty out the sump, etc.. IMO, get the best equipment you can afford. After all, it is a life support system for your precious reeflife. Losing them can be a big shock too (always use a GFCI).
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180 gal tank, 50 gal sump, PM RFCa6 Ca Reactor, SWC Extreme 250 1A Cone Skimmer, Tunz Osmolator ATOF, Aquacontroller Apex, Aquaillumination Sol Super Blue 6 x 75w Units, Acros/Softies/LPS/Mushrooms/Zoos, Purple/Powder Blue/Yellow Tang/3xBlue Chromis/2xTomato Clown/Lawnmower Blenny |
#8
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![]() I think the ideal thing to do is run a pair of smaller pumps. Or (if your system is small enough) run an eheim. i'd bet my life on one =)
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#9
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![]() I agree, i lost all my coral and inverts when starting out due to a cheap heater sticking on. My advice to anyone starting out on a budget is that good used stuff is better than shiny new crap.
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My 150 In Wall Build |
#10
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![]() been lucky so far but a controller is defiantly next on the list, the network camera only goes so far when im out of town..
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![]() - 33 Gal - 20Gal Sump, MP10/Hydor Powerheads, Aquaticlife 4x T-5HO, Vertex IN100, TLF w/Biopellets, Tunze ATO -45GAL Build in Progress!- |
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