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#11
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![]() Ummm.......I don't think that would work well in -30 degree weather.
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#12
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![]() Actually, that's what I'm thinking of doing, but making a disconnect system so I take it inside during the winter.
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Mitch |
#13
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![]() Hehhe...good point -no reason for it to be there in the winter, is there.
Unfortunately, that's not possible with where I have the tank (neither is going into the basement). I'm gettin a little concerned with the lack of people saying they've done this !
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#14
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![]() I would consider alternatives to the chiller. I've never needed one and Saskatoon is worse than Calgary for heat. Even in the stand if the back is open the noise level will be the same.
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#15
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![]() sorry i live in lalaland--8 is the coldest it got here.i agree with a disconect for the winter,and you could put an insulated box over your hole in the winter.as your tank will not be moving ,you could still drill holes through the wall and it wouldn't be seen
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#16
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![]() Quote:
As for chiller in the stand, now you have a heat source under the tank.
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my tank |
#17
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![]() Quote:
When the ambient temperature in the room is higher than the desired tank temp, you've GOT to cool it. The problem is that the tank is in the living room upstairs. If I put it downstairs, then I've never have a problem -but I'd never see it either, so that isn't going to happen. I don't think our electrical entry could handle adding central air. Frankly, it's so damned cold here all the time, I'm THRILLED to have it warm in the place in the summer. The ONLY thing that may be a factor and I won't know until everything is done is that with the cool nights here, if I go from ~35 gal system volume to ~200 gal system volume, it may just take long enough to heat that volume of water that it gets to be evening (and cooler) before things get too hot. However, as we all know, it only takes ONE day of abnormal temps to upset the tank. This is why I have the chiller.
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#18
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![]() Well if your house gets up to 28 degrees inside I can understand the issue and need to cool the tank but I'm not sure how someone could live in a house that gets that hot. I'd recommend at the very least a room air conditioner if central air is not an alternative purely for your own comfort.
As for other cooling alternatives, some kind of evaporative cooling system could be very efficient and can be as simple as a single fan blowing over the display or sump. My last tank was open top with a halide hanging fixture. The fixture used no fans but I used a single small fan to blow air over the water between the fixture. Worked on a controller and never let my tank go over 82F even when it was 35C outside (I did not have any AC in the house). You can get more creative with an evaporative cooler but you'll want to vent the air outtake outside to keep humidity down in the house. Keep in mind an evaporative cooler will still work when ambient air temperature is above desired tank temperature. Actually the hotter and dryer the air the better. Last edited by sphelps; 03-11-2011 at 04:08 PM. |
#19
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![]() I currently have my chiller in the stand. Like you mentioned, the back has to be open to let the heat out. I do not find the chiller to be any less noisey than when it was outside the stand.
I am planning on either moving the entire tank setup into our basement rumpus room or at the least moving the chiller into the basement. |
#20
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![]() you could put it in the attic run the pipes in the wall what size pipe 1" 1.5 would be very easy to run in the wall with very little damage. or box them in on the out side very easy
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