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#1
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![]() all of these things will work to fix/band-aid/penicillin the problem......but if you dont address whats causing it then it will likely be back......
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#2
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![]() Agreed with above. You said you do water changes when N and P spike. How often is that?
You really need a regular schedule to maintain trace elements/parameters, etc. If you wait till your parameters are off, I think it's too late, personally. |
#3
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![]() i was having a problem as well for no apparent reason-i found it was my salt mix that i was using(h2ocean)
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#4
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![]() No kidding? I've never had it and recently switched to H2Ocean. 3 water changes in the last 6 weeks using the new salt and it appeared.
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#5
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![]() Not sure if this helps.....I run my halides 7-8 hrs per day. If I increase this at all even 30 min......I seem to start a breakout of red slime ---bubbles start etc.
Not sure if this helps you......when I backed off the lighting it cleared up.
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Es355lucille & KissMyWrasse's 140g Main Tank 55g Sump http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=51996 ![]() |
#6
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![]() I too have recently switched to H2Ocean as Reefers Best is impossible to get anymore. I haven't had any issues, done 4 water changes with the new salt.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#7
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![]() i really noticed it in my aqua-medic reactors.just in my nanochloropus and tetraselimis the cyano would start to grow where there shouldn't be anything but my cultures.since i switched away from h2ocean i don't have that problem anymore.and in my tank i also add sea snow,which also helps
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#8
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![]() well I use reef crystals for salt. I dose for all the essential things in my tank. And to me a spike is anything over 10 for trates and 1.5 for phosphates. I usually do 10-15g change every 2 weeks just cuz so I am in a regular changing system
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#9
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![]() Where is the mystery? Of course you're going to have algae and slime problems if you have detectable nitrate and phosphate like that. Beef up your filteration, cut back on feeding, increase the flow, remove some fish, change your bulbs (if they're old) etc... But probably more important, you need to let your tank stabalize and mature. A cyano phase is very common in relatively new systems or systems that are constantly disrupted so give it time and if everything else is as it should be it will go away on its own.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#10
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![]() Oh my god he lives lol
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riceboys 82.7 gallon sps dominant tank -concept built 3'x2'x22" full starfire tank with starfire 1 piece eurobrace and built in wave box, 1 jebao wp25, 4 mp10wes, ati led Hybrid 8 bulb fixture, csc 250 skimmer, Magdrive 18 return pump, apex lite, custom sump from concepts, biopellet reactor and carbon and gfo,bubble magnus doser and jbj ato, custom acrylic frag tank with 6 bulb t5 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=70851 |
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