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#1
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![]() If you are planning on an upgrade I would go with the one that is rated for 1200 gph, you can easily control your flow with a couple gate valves.
Depending on how much flow you are looking for go with a CS 102 or bigger.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build Last edited by The Grizz; 02-17-2011 at 01:30 AM. |
#2
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![]() thanks Grizz (i just saw your shallow tank build thread the other day, very impressive! The day i can afford a house on this god damn island I want to try a long shallow tank myself) im alittle confused as to how this all works apparently. Doesnt the overflow automatically adjust to whatever return pump i run as long as the overflow can handle the GPH rating of the pump? im not sure where the gate valves would come into play?
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![]() - 33 Gal - 20Gal Sump, MP10/Hydor Powerheads, Aquaticlife 4x T-5HO, Vertex IN100, TLF w/Biopellets, Tunze ATO -45GAL Build in Progress!- |
#3
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![]() I take it drilling the tank is not an option?
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#4
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![]() I would not get a CPR type overflow. They are dependant on a pump to keep them working. Although not 100% foolproof a u-tube overflow design is much better. I have never had a problem with mine.
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#5
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![]() that was actually the original plan, however it was a used tank and im unsure what kind of glass im working with. I havent a clue how to 'test' whether or not the back is tempered or able to be drilled. Another problem is i dont have a temp tank i could move everything to in order to drill, i assumed drilling with livestock in the tank would be.. well not recommended to say the least. Looking at the prices of the higher gph cpr overflows im wondering if upgrade time for the tank with panes im able to drill might be the cheaper and better way to go in the long run...
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![]() - 33 Gal - 20Gal Sump, MP10/Hydor Powerheads, Aquaticlife 4x T-5HO, Vertex IN100, TLF w/Biopellets, Tunze ATO -45GAL Build in Progress!- |
#6
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![]() To test if your tank is tempered, you will need polarized sunglasses, and a source of light. A laptop or better yet the sun. When you put the glasses on and tilt your head the pane shows stress marks nd gets darker (if tempered).
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#7
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![]() ill give that a shot tomorrow!
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![]() - 33 Gal - 20Gal Sump, MP10/Hydor Powerheads, Aquaticlife 4x T-5HO, Vertex IN100, TLF w/Biopellets, Tunze ATO -45GAL Build in Progress!- |
#8
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![]() Quote:
if you have a tank thats already running and your already planning an upgrade then i would save that money you would use on an overflow and put it towards your upgrade......buy only what you need and can use for a long time ![]() a temporary tank while you drill can easily be just a large bin hasnt got to be pretty just large enough and safe enough for your livestock.......hang a little sign sayng construction in progress lol but i would just save for your upgrade ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#9
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![]() I would would have to agree with reefwars. If you are eventually going to upgrade, save the money and get a reef ready tank. People sell them on here all the time.
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#10
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![]() Quote:
Hahaha yeah thats a good point, I have a couple 20gal Rubbermaid tubs ive never used in the garage i suppose thatd do it. Ill have to sleep on it, a drilled tank being next to 'foolproof' does sounds alittle more attractive. Thanks for the comments everyone.
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![]() - 33 Gal - 20Gal Sump, MP10/Hydor Powerheads, Aquaticlife 4x T-5HO, Vertex IN100, TLF w/Biopellets, Tunze ATO -45GAL Build in Progress!- |
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