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#1
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![]() Quote:
i agree completely holwever sometimes we dont get fish that have enough time to fight it so if say you help a friend whos got a fish showing bad symtoms and you offer to treat for him(ive had this alot because people are afraid to take that step and be the one who fails on the fish...understandable) then throwing him into your display would be bad especially if he is getting bullied.......but i do agree that if you practise safe buying, dont buy fish every couple days and let things stabilize and maintain a healthy tank then its easier for fish to fight it off and even hyposalinity can be bad if done wrong so there are no easy fixes ![]() ![]() it always comes down to not rushing and understanding all the things you do with your tank and asking questions and reading and discussing it..... it will go a long way and end up with a healthy tank.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
The LFS stores I deal with, do the work for me. They do whatever treating that is necessary in their environement and won't let the fish go until it is 100% healthy looking and eating. Sometimes I had to wait 3-4 weeks for a fish, but well worth the wait, as I have NEVER lost a fish through this type of process at the LFS.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#3
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![]() I agree.
I think the secret is to buy first class quality fish. Too often reefers see a fish they like, one that is not often available or is simply a great deal and buy it and overlook "imperfections". If the fish is free of spots, tears or redness, is plump with clear eyes take a second look at it. If it appears just as interested in you as you are in it, and actively swimming, buy it. If not, pass on the fish as there will also be another one available. Also avoid fish that are problematic like the powder blue tang and difficult to keep species as the chances are that it will get sick and die often taking a few of their tankmates with it. I treat all new fish with a week of food saturated in Garlic Extreme and avoid putting any LFS water or the net in the tank. Last edited by naesco; 02-09-2011 at 11:39 PM. |
#4
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![]() Thanks for the advice, I didnt buy these from a LFS which is why I felt I should play it safe. The LFS that sold me the cupramine told me it was perfectly safe and the bottle label led me to believe it as well. It says moat fish can tolerate levels at .8, but the recommendation is .6. Mine was .4 I really thought I was being safe.
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#5
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![]() Just because they come from somewhere other than a LFS doesn't mean that the fish arn't heathly. In fact a lot of the time at the LFS the fish are stressed or in poorer condition (60 clowns in a 30G for example).
Copper treatment is a last resort treatment and as Denny said that tank shouldn't be used for anything else other than copper treatments. The copper is a poision that can leach out and affect other fish/inverts in the future. Sorry for the loss, its never fun. |
#6
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![]() Some fish can not handle the copper treatment, I have seen the treatment of small fish kill in minutes. Although this is a good QT interval, unless there are signs that the fish are sick, in need of treatment, I just want to moniter Tamen in the quarantine tank a couple of weeks, and then they end of transmission or signs of disease, if at the time treatment Is necessary.
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