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#1
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
I do not have a Mandarin. I may get one in the future. Just, as mentioned above, want to ensure I maintain a healthy population.
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![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#2
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![]() I have added live cultures to the tank before, really no noticeable effects. Personally I think you get a much better variety of pods & plankton from liverock and new coral purchases. It's a shame that a quick Iodine bath kills most of this life but it's usually for the best.
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#3
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![]() My trick has always been to make a rubble pile somewhere in my tank where detritus naturally builds up and where my fish can't get at my pods. My rubble pile is actually underneath all of my rock in the very back of the tank where it is almost impossible to see. I seeded the tank with some pod-heavy rocks and fed some food to the rubble pile for the first couple of weeks but now just let the detritus do the work for me. It is a POD FACTORY. My mandarin has learned to hang out at the pile at certain times of the day when there is an apparent changing of the guards to to speak... it's like the pods work shifts. Weird.
I also use a CPR bakpak skimmer with the biobale removed. The skimmer acts both like a skimmer and a refugium there is always a ton of pods running around inside of there. When hanging out with the head of research at the Vancouver Aquarium a couple months ago I brought up the discussion of pods. He said that most pods that you buy won't actually form breeding populations as they eventually just die. Surprisingly a number of the pod species sold in stores aren't native to tropical saltwater conditions are are not raised in those conditions and so die fairly quick in our tanks. Not all, but most. His opinion also was that trigger pods are the devil as they are a predatory pod that can take down other smaller pods and fauna and even kill and eat fish fry (if you ever try to breed fish that is). |
#4
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![]() Scubasteve-- Did he mention which brands or species do survive?
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35g Algae tank....some nuisance corals -- Deltec MCE600 Skimmer -- 4x36" GLO T5HO |
#5
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![]() Not Me... With the amount of live rock in my DT and Sump/Refuge, pods have never been an issue. My mandarin sure loves the ample supply.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#6
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![]() I know for having try them that that large tiger pods don,t survive. I think they live in much colder water and only live a few hours to a few days in my tank. They also are mostly free swimming so they get grabbed by the corals and fish in no time.
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#7
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![]() I have never added pods to my tank. A year and a half old now and I still pull the odd pod out of my sock. My mandarin and pipefish only eat pods so there seems to be a self sustaining population.
A cheaper way of adding planktonic life to your tank is to buy a bunch of shrimp. I have 4 skunk cleaners, two fire shrimp, 3 peppermints, 4 sexy shrimp and 3 pom pomp crabs. All of them reproduce on a regular basis and pollute my tank with yummy larvae. |
#8
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![]() Tigger-Pods will NOT grow well in your main display tank. They are too large to hide so they get eaten quickly, and they starve because there is not enough microalgae for them to feed on.
They are NOT cold water species. We've been culturing them at 75-90 F for many years. They are absolutely NOT carnivorous - they feed on microalgae, 1-20 microns in size. When you do the math it's obvious they can't feed on other copepods: 1) Tigger-Pods do not have teeth so they must consume their food whole. 2) The smallest copepod I know is about 90 microns, about 1/10 the size of a Tigger-Pod. 3) That would be the equivalent to a 150 lbs person trying to swallow whole something that weighs 15 lbs. ..... Tigriopus californicus don't live in the ocean - they live in the warm splash zone pools up above the ocean. These pools are shallow and get quite warm during the day, some much warmer than reef systems. The following published scientific study shows that they live in temperatures ranging from 42 to 92 F: (http://journals.cambridge.org/action...line&aid=70713). In the tide pools where Tigger-Pods live there are no predators so they don't have the instincts to hide in the rocks when fish come by. Since they don't hide they get eaten pretty quickly in display tanks. We recommend they be cultured in a sump or refugium where there are no predators. They can also be easily cultured in a separate system like a 9x13 cake pan. The population of copepods in a reef system is often food limited by the amount of natural microalgae that the reef system produces each day. If you supplement with microalgae you increase the amount of available food, and hence the population that can be supported. When additional pods are added the amount of food required immediately goes up, especially when feeding very large copepods like Tigger-Pods. Unfortunately many people don't add additional microalgae so both the Tigger-Pods and the existing copepod population end up with a food shortage and quickly starve.
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Randy Reed, Reed Mariculture / Reef Nutrition |
#9
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![]() Quote:
So your recommendation?
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![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
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