LED light build

[mseepman]

Looking forward to this little build. I will be doing a large LED build myself and just received the 180 or so LED's today. I'm like you and am an amateur at all things electrical but with the help of some of the RC threads I think I've got a pretty good handle on this stuff. I've also completed a quick little build already just as a test.

Some thoughts for you right away so that you can plan for the future...if this is only part of the LED's you need for the whole build (and I agree) you should seriously re-think the use of multiple Meanwells. They are the best option as drivers in my opinion but the specific ELN 60-48's are not Power Factor Corrected and as such have a very large in-rush of current when they start. If you end up doing more LED's and get more meanwells, they can put some serious strain on your house electrical...even to the risk of starting fires. Serial builds (12 LED's per meanwell) are the easiest way to go but you may find a need for changes in the future to give you what you want.

There is a huge thread on RC about DIY LED builds and there is lots of info about the potential Meanwell issue there.

Hope that helps rather than hinders.

[Milad]

Im with mseepman,
dont to a ton of 60-48Ds, you will start a fire, and its more expensive. get an HLG version

48 XR-E are closer to the 250w MH
For your other builds I would suggest getting the XP-G CW and XP-E RB
And if you want to get really fancy get XM-L CW instead

and for heatsinks, for a big build, I would also suggest aluminium u-channel. It works fine and its cheap at your local hardware store. you just have to put fans on it to. What you will find is that your 72in fixture because a huge big piece of heatsink that you will have trouble hanging over your tank.

for connecting to your APEX I would wire a rj-45 jack to your project box in a way that you can just plug in a cat-5 patch cable and control both colors. makes it easy.

[mseepman]

Originally Posted by Milad

for connecting to your APEX I would wire a rj-45 jack to your project box in a way that you can just plug in a cat-5 patch cable and control both colors. makes it easy.

Milad, do you have a detailed explanation of how this would be done. I think I read a little about it elsewhere but the discussion had little detail. I love the idea of "quick connect".

[Milad]

I havent done it yet but its straight forward

first you need RJ-45 jack, you can get it from home depot



next you get a standard cat-5 cable. home depot too, or computer store
MAKE SURE ITS NOT A CROSSOVER CABLE. The wiring should be exactly the same on both sides of the connector.

here is the difference: http://www.callicrate.com/Howto/MakeCat5.html

At home depot they also carry faceplates like an AC outlet but for the RJ-45jack. might want to get that or you can find a smooth way to put it on your box.

so anyways once you got your rj-45 jack on your project box you just connect the dimming cables correctly

Pin - Usage
1 0-10vdc V1 and V3
2 Ground
3
4
5 0-10vdc V2 and V4
6 Ground
7
8

So the + of the dimming cable for one set of lights goes to pin 1 on the RJ-45 jack. The ground goes to Pin2. Other set of lights + goes to pin5, ground to pin6.

[Tn23]

Very nice build, following your thread and perhaps going to attempt something like this myself in the near future. May I ask where you purchased all your parts from? Any sources I can take a look at and maybe perhaps price out how much I'd be looking to spend? Thanks and great thread so far!

[mseepman]

I think he said he got it all at www.reefledlights.com

[Rogue951]

You're not doing a very good job following.
read first post, first line, 3rd paragraph.

Originally Posted by Salty23

Very nice build, following your thread and perhaps going to attempt something like this myself in the near future. May I ask where you purchased all your parts from? Any sources I can take a look at and maybe perhaps price out how much I'd be looking to spend? Thanks and great thread so far!

[Ian]

thanks for the info about the mean wells and this is something I will have to consider in the future. it will be interesting to get this up and running and put it to the test of a PAR metre (ordered). The way I am laying ot out I should be able to add more Leds should I have to little light. I have also already changed the way I am planning to wire the LEd's already so i have more drivers than needed this should reduce the start-up load significantly for the time being. [i] will certainly place an in line fuse in each string of lights and a resistor as well for measuring current drawn through each cicuit.