Torch Coral Not doing so hot

[BlueTang<3]

Can you post the levels of your tank? D you notice and brown slime around the heads.

[eternitybc]

Levels were posted- all at 0. No, no brown slime... I'm inclined to think it was the protomarin, as our pulsing xenias also look like they're suffering

Anything I can do to speed it up healing, and keep it from dying?

[ALang]

Doing a larger water change then filter out the remaining chemicals with carbon may help.

[ScubaSteve]

Originally Posted by eternitybc

Levels were posted- all at 0. No, no brown slime... I'm inclined to think it was the protomarin, as our pulsing xenias also look like they're suffering

Anything I can do to speed it up healing, and keep it from dying?

Xenia are a good canary in the coal mine. If they are ticked then there is a chemical floating around, likely protomarin or nitrates. Shriveled xenia is a good sign of chemicals, closed or slow pulsing polyps (on a once pulsing specimen) is usually water quality.


What can you do to help it? Don't bother it. Just keep everything stable, clean and don't do too much at once.

[MitchM]

You say that the pics are of healthy corals (unless I'm reading this wrong)
The coral in your first pic actually doesn't look all that happy, plus there is a head that has died off recently.
What time of the day was that picture taken?
Calcium, Magnesium, Alk levels?

Mitch

[BlueTang<3]

I was also not asking about the levels you posted i am after your calcium alk and magnesium. My bet is your magnesium is low.

[MitchM]

Originally Posted by BlueTang<3

I was also not asking about the levels you posted i am after your calcium alk and magnesium. My bet is your magnesium is low.

Yep....


Mitch

[ScubaSteve]

My first reaction (if all your levels are zero) is likely the protomarin treatment. Protomarin only says that it's tolerated by coral, not loved. If you take a look at the compounds in it, they are all stressors. It won't kill things but it sure as heck will tick them off.

I'd recommend checking your parameters again, particularly nitrates. Make sure you leave your nitrate test for a good 15 minutes before determining the colour as the reaction is quite slow and in most cases looks like zero off the bat; the true story becomes apparent in a few minutes (I used to make this mistake). I often find my tentacled LPS (hammer, frogspawn and duncan) will be more retracted at higher nitrate levels. If protomarin can kill of ich, it can likely make a dent in a bacteria population (or other similar) and cause a bump in the levels.

A good, sizable water change and fresh carbon will help out if there are any nasties floating around from the protomarin itself, any toxins released by one of your corals because of the protomarin or if your 'trates are actually high.

Start there and see what happens. Try to not fuss around with its location too much; you'll just **** it off. If it like the flow before and you haven't changed the flow patern at all, it's likely not the issue. Also, just something to consider, make sure nothing is bugging one of your softies and causing chemical warfare; you'd be surprised how often this is the case.

Oh, and as blue tang suggested: If there is brown jelly on the torch that is a sign of disease. I didn't see that in your pic but just take a look.