Tank Setup

[hipp77]

I was wondering if anyone else has a 125-150 gal tank that is not drilled for a sump, and does not have a overflow on it.

What are you using other than live rock and a skimmer?

Are you using a cannister filter as well

I saw one tank (150 gal) with just a skimmer and live rock.

Anyone doing this ???

[Bartman1818]

I am no expert what soever but from what I understand, you could run a complete system with only powerheads, a protein skimmer and tons of LR.

Thats what I am doing

And to add, a forum member told me that canister filters can only do more harm then good in the long run.

[Seek828]

I'm no expert as well
but for my current tank and my previous tanks I have always run just skimmer and liverocks
I think it works pretty well
I sometime consider an extra hang-on or canister filter only for the extra place for me to add media for the tank. (When I am not running sump)

[High tide]

True, you can make this hobby pretty much as simple and as sophisticated as you want, all depending on what you want to keep or how much of a "green thumb" you are. I would recommend having a canister filter at your disposal, or something with good flow for carbon,GFO, micron cartridge, etc. use, if you need it.

[mike31154]

+1 on the canister. I've been running a Rena XP3 with XP2 motor on my 75 for two years now. I run the baskets empty except for a bag of carbon. Used to run a bag of GFO as well but gave up since my phosphate readings never changed (0) whether I ran the GFO or not. Maybe it's my cheap test kit, dunno, but GFO is expensive and the tank seems fine without it. One of the reasons I'm using the XP2 motor is to reduce the flow through the canister, since lower flow was recommended when running GFO. Might go back to the XP3 motor now that I've ceased the GFO.

Many comments about canisters being a nitrate factory but IME that's another broad statement that I was unable to confirm in my system. When I first set up my system, which was used, it came with a Rena XP2 containing only ceramic media. Being a newb I ran it that way for a while, then decided to insert all the recommended (by manufacturer) media such as filter pads and their own special phosphate removal pad. Nitrates where a bit high but nothing harmful that I could see. Cleaning the pads became a chore though, even more so when I upgraded to the XP3 (also a used unit). Then I read about the nitrate factory issue and decided to remove all the media and run it empty just for the extra flow & water capacity. Even after several months of running it this way, the nitrate readings remained the same, around 20 ppm. The only thing that brought them down was water changes and it didn't take too long for them to get back to the original level. 2 years after setup, still running the canister and my nitrates are now 0. Not entirely sure how this happened. I added some Chaetomorpha about a year ago and a month or so after that the nitrates were undetectable. Could be a combination of adding the chaeto and perhaps my live rock and sand bed finally maturing to the point where the nitrates no longer have a chance.

[MMAX]

From what I've read in this forum posted by the experts, cannister filters are nitrate factories. I used to run mine straight from the factory full of the foam and media that it came with along with a small skimmer. Since then I've removed the skimmer and gutted my cannister filling it full of live rock with the bottom tray containing carbon. This set-up by the way is on a 20gal. If you're talking about a 125-150gal tank, I'm not sure if it's worth running a cannister fliter on it. Go with a sump, skimmer and live rock.

[High tide]

Originally Posted by MMAX

From what I've read in this forum posted by the experts, cannister filters are nitrate factories. I used to run mine straight from the factory full of the foam and media that it came with along with a small skimmer. Since then I've removed the skimmer and gutted my cannister filling it full of live rock with the bottom tray containing carbon. This set-up by the way is on a 20gal. If you're talking about a 125-150gal tank, I'm not sure if it's worth running a cannister fliter on it. Go with a sump, skimmer and live rock.

They can be nitrate factories if used incorrectly. You are producing nitrates by using it as a biological filter. I only suggest running carbon, phosphate remover, micron cartridge, etc....chemical/mechanical filtration. As far as size goes, there are many different sizes of canister filter and can be employed on larger systems, size may hinder or expedite removal depending on what filtering media you are using.

[MCC]

If you are going sumpless... here are some choices for you:

1. Don't use any canister filters..... they do produce a lot nitrates and waste if you don't change / rinse your pads regularly....

2. You are restricted to only HOB or in-tank skimmers. For a size of tank like yours.. it can be quite expensive to get a HOB or in-tank skimmer to support 125-150 gallons of water. You are either looking at Tunzes or CPR backpack skimmers... or Deltecs....

3. Look into a AC 110 mod or a Large HOB refugium .... add some cheato and you got a nitrate removing factory......

4. Yes lots and lots of LR and a good depth of sand bed....

5. Last, but most important.... good regular water changes.... once your tank establish a size like yours....one 25% water change every 4 weeks is good enough... if you equipment is up to par !

[neoh]

sorry to bring up such an old thread.

What if you were to add cheato and some LR into the canister filter? Would this work?

[mike31154]

Don't think the chaeto would get sufficient light nor have room to grow in most canister filters. It would also likely clog it up real fast. Using LR in a canister is not all that uncommon though.