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#1
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![]() So I soaked the float overnight and reinstalled it. The float moves freely and the controller receives the signal. Red light on the controller pump when the float is low and light is out when the float rises.
The pump works when I bypass the controller. So it appears the controller is getting the signal from the float but it is not turning on power to the pump.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
#2
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![]() You might have to give the interior of the controller a quick once over to see that salt is not stopping it from working properly.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#3
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![]() I think there is a relay in there that maybe sticking you may have to just clean the wloe thing. You can use a volt meter to see where the power leads goto and if it is going through the relay once you have the float attached and check the switch as if it got changed by acident then you have to use the other switch input location or just switch it back to the original mode I believe it should be in mode a and the sencor in sencor 1.
Bill |
#4
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![]() Quote:
If I have interpreted your notes correctly I should: 1. clean float (done) 2. clean contacts (red light is coming on so the contact should be good) 3. open controller and clean the circuits with peroxide? 4. let dry and test 5. swap modes on the controller, then test again. Since this unit worked smoothly for 12 months with the existing mode I am hoping that step 3 and 4 should solve the issue.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
#5
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![]() Well I went through the cleaning routine on the weekend but without any success. The controller was swabbed with peroxide then with vinegar and left to dry.
I plugged it in a few hours later. This time the pump turned on but would not turn off with the float switch. Last night I tried again but the pump would not turn on. So I will go through the swabbing again. I did not swab the backside of the controller which I will do this time. I will also swab the inside of the controller box as well.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
#6
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![]() Sorry that I did not see the post on the weekend I would swab the backside of the board saly and other stuff can creep into the unit. I have not have a problem like this but if it is from creep of some kind this should do the trick. If this dose not do the trick there maybe a solder joint that is bad and cleaning the board with the swab only forced a conection temporary. I would then take it to an elctronic store and have them go over the solder joints they will know what they are looking for.
One other thing you can do to test is to have the unit open and plug everying in and wereing rubber gloves have it so the red light is on and the pump should be running then gently put presure on individule componets that are on the board when you come to the part that is not making contact the pump will start this is the part that needs to be soldered or replaced take it to a electronics repair store do not do it your self. but you can save on the repair bill because you have found the part that is not working properly. I do not recomend doing it your self unless you know what you are doing and have the right equipment like a temperature controled solding iron or a pace sodering station about $500-$700. You can damage componets with to much heat. Bill |
#7
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![]() Thanks Bill, I was hoping you would respond. If a more through swabbing does not work then I will do the rubber glove test.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
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