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#1
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![]() Something you'll have to ask the manufacturer. It likely won't be repairable by any local tech. If the circuitry is encased in epoxy (some electronic ballasts are) it won't be serviceable at all.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#2
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![]() You will have a hard time finding anyone to fix the ballast. If you were to open it up and look inside, you will see that everything is coated in a thick layer of black rubberized something-or-other. It's probably more cost effective to buy a new one. Sorry man, wish I had some good news
![]() J+L has a good deal on them usually, Good luck!
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![]() 90 gal SPS display+65 gallon mixed reef GEAR: Korallin calcium reactor, bio pellets, digital aquatics controller, Tunze ATO, MP40, 4 x Tunze 6105 w/controller, Reef Octopus Xp3000 ext, 2x250w MH, Futura LED. |
#3
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![]() That's one thing about the electronic ballasts I don't like. I think only Icecap as far as I know, makes it so that their product is serviceable. Any others with this epoxy coating idea and you're S.O.L. Had it happen to me, spent $250 on a ballast, got 5 minutes of use on it until a short in the reflector wiring caused one of the lamp leads to ground out. Says right on the ballast "DO NOT CONTACT LAMP LEADS TO GROUND". All I could do in the end was throw it out.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#4
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![]() Well, I've had my other bulb plugged in for over an hour. So far no flickering. I'll leave it in for a couple of days just to be sure, but so far it looks like the bulb is the problem. The bulb I put in for this test is my old Aqua Connect 14K, which seams to still be in fairly good shape. There isn't even burn marks or however you describe the usual discoloration on the inside bulb thing, or whatever you call it.
![]() If this bulb starts to flicker, and it is my ballast, I might just switch over to a T5 fixture for the same price as a new ballast. But thats another post all together.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#5
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![]() I had a similar issue. My 175 Watt Hamilton 14k Bulbs worked great, but were old. I replaced them with 10K AM Bulbs and had issues with flickering and the bulbs turning off. My Hamiltons worked fine. About a month later the ballast completely died.
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#6
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![]() I hope the T5 lights I order come soon. Right now I'm lucky if the light is staying on even half the time. My poor corals and fish don't know what the heck is going on!
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#7
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![]() So did you order a T-5 fixture? if so what did you get?
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#8
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![]() If not encased in epoxy you will more than likely find the part numbers on the semiconductors scrubbed off.
Quote:
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-=Bryan=- |
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