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Old 12-03-2009, 04:06 PM
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OMG!! Well I feel bad now for talking you into new ballasts. Sorry to hear about this. Im glad Kevin could help you out of a jam. Like I said I put a 2x250w PFO ballast on my coralife fixture with no issues. I would say your problem lies in the fact that for whatever reason coralife decided to put the ignitor in the fixture and not the ballast. I dont even know what to say, but sorry.

Scott
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkinsn View Post
OMG!! Well I feel bad now for talking you into new ballasts. Sorry to hear about this. Im glad Kevin could help you out of a jam. Like I said I put a 2x250w PFO ballast on my coralife fixture with no issues. I would say your problem lies in the fact that for whatever reason coralife decided to put the ignitor in the fixture and not that ballast. I dont even know what to say, but sorry.

Scott
No need to apologize, things worked out and who knew! Now the questions is how do I remove the ignitors to run better ballasts, is this possible?
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Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite)
Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker
Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO)
Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish
Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:22 PM
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Im sure you by-pass the ignitor and run it that way just fine because the vertex will have one built in. But im no electrician, and I also would have to see how its wired.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:54 PM
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I find electronic ballasts to be tiny bit dicier on the reliability and fussier overall. If there's any kind of short in the fixture that takes the current to the fixture frame, for example, and the frame is grounded.. some will react differently than others. I once had a electronic ballast where it shorted out to ground and that was the end of the ballast. 5 minutes old and it was garbage.

Your GFCI tripping indicates a ground fault to me (ie., current on the ground wire or a current imbalance, or whatever) and not an overloaded circuit. I realize that saying this now is a little like rubbing salt into your wounds, sorry not intended as such: I feel your pain, trust me (nothing was worse than the feeling of reading the warning label on my junked ballast: "Caution! Do not let lamp leads contact ground!") But in the future if your GFCI trips twice in a row like that, stop right there, and don't proceed until you've worked things over and found the ground fault.

I would check your fixture for any loose or pinched wires (you'll have to open it up and examine every wire, every connection). Dollars to donuts there is something.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:06 PM
Red Coral Aquariums Red Coral Aquariums is offline
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It is SUCH A RELIEF to see your lighting is back up and running. (I'm sure I added more gray hairs to my white mop.) Your patience, diligence, and understanding played a major roll in returning your lighting back to it's original output but then those 3 attributes are mainstay in keeping a successful reef.
I will rewire the my spare corallife fixture to bypass the igniter using the vertex ballast and let you know the results.
Thanks
Kevin
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:23 PM
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The ignitors are in the fixture itself and not an external ballast box? Ohhhh. Well, ok then. "Whoops" ... Guess that makes sense. For pulse start ballasts, the old cap-n-coil style, there are 3 components: the transformer, a capacitor, and the ignitor (sort of a specialized capacitor). Most of the ballasts requires that the "ignitor to lamp" distance be a fairly short distance, unless using special "long range" ignitors. I guess Coralife got around this issue by keeping the ignitors close to the lamp ... regardless if whether the other two components are remotely mounted or not.

The Vertex as an electronic ballast doesn't have an ignitor but as an electronic ballast doesn't need one. Anyhow hooking it up with the ignitor still in line will certainly have bizarre results.

Just take out the ignitors and wire the new ballast leads directly the lamp sockets. What I would do is go to Home Depot or whatever, and get a pair of female and male replacement extension cord plugs so that you can disconnect the ballast easily from the fixture. (Unless the new ballast already comes with quick disconnects.) So basically you have a slight DIY project on your hand to upgrade your fixture's ballast but it's not that bad, a screwdriver, wire strippers and mmmmaybe a crimper with some crimps is all you're going to need.

I'd be happy to help if you wanted an extra set of hands and/or tools.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:29 PM
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Is your fixture running SE or DE bulbs? I have a 6' coralife with SE bulbs and never had problems, I upgraded to 400w
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