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#1
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![]() I was quite happy with how the system ran. Very quiet and no issues save for this one minor one.
![]() Yes, that is a small leak from that fitting. I guess there wasn't enough teflon. Instead of reapplying it I ended up siliconing all the threaded barbed fittings just to be on the safe side. In order to do that though I had to shut the system down and take those barbed adapters out and dry them. A great opportunity to do a power failure test! This is what the sump looks like after a powerfail and the water has drained back into the sump. ![]() There was definite lack of flood water on the floor which everyone in the house appreciated. The water in the main tank only drained down as far as the bottom edge of the overflow weir. To break the siphon from the returns, these holes were drilled into the sides of the return nozzles which are at the same level as the bottom edge of overflow. In normal operation the water rises above these holes by about a half an inch. This prevents air from being sucked into the return line and shooting bubbles into the tank. ![]() So now I wait for the silicone to dry and power it up again tomorrow. If all goes well I will flush the tank and sump and fill it with salt water instead of that nasty tap water. Last edited by kien; 07-28-2009 at 06:47 AM. |
#2
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![]() Just wondering isn't a guy supposed to avoid hose clamps like that due to major rust issues??
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130g peninsula aquarium 45g sump Tek light 8 bulb fixture, tunze nano wave box, vortech mp-20, rowaspas reactor, carbon, hydor preformer 600 skimmer, quiet one 6000 return |
#3
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![]() Looks good!
I would move the whole tubes above the sump. That way if you have a leak from some reason, all the water will go to the sump. |
#4
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![]() remove metal hose clamps, will rust and contaminate water. Ocean Aquatics has plastic clamps http://oceanaquatics.com/store/category/34/360/Clamps/
Use electrical tape or black paint to cover up the clear hose. it WILL get algae covered inside and restrict flow, requiring frequent cleaning. Just dont use tape below warerline You might want to put a union on the return pump as well? Not sure how tough those hoses are to remove from the barbs. Mine are really tough. the pump will need to come out for cleaning Other than that, looks great ![]()
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#5
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![]() Nice work Kien. You're moving along fast. Not sure how you managed all the updates when you had a wedding! Im hoping I'll have all my parts by the end of the day and will start the build tonight or tomorrow most likely. I'm hoping to fill this weekend. We all know that timely goals in this hobby usually arent met, but at least Ive set one! haha
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#6
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![]() I have read that soda water or carbonated water will lower the DKH. As to whether it could harm your fish - I'm uncertain, not knowing very much about salt systems. However, I would assume that it's like any other water parameter and any high or low level can be bad...
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"you bought another fish?" "... but honey, it looked at me!..." |
#7
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#8
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![]() Quote:
One thing I have learned is that you *never* have all the fittings/parts until you are actually done! I have lost count of how many times I've been to Rona, Western Pump and Red Coral (for parts). Also, I now have a bunch of extra fittings that I ended up not using :-) |
#9
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#10
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![]() Looking great! Almost too good to put anything in it.. Nice pics as well.
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180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
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