![]() |
|
Portal | PhotoPost Gallery | Register | Blogs | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
other than that tank looks great
__________________
but what the heck do i know |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Unfortunately the tank was drilled with the hole in bottom for the return when we got it. Is there anything else a guy can do other than a check valve? Also a quick question about return pumps.... our quietone 6000 constantly hums pretty loudly. Its more like a resonant frequency hum but after a while it really grates on your nerves. Is this normal? Can this be avoided with say an external type pump... ie reeflo snapper gold or one similar?
__________________
130g peninsula aquarium 45g sump Tek light 8 bulb fixture, tunze nano wave box, vortech mp-20, rowaspas reactor, carbon, hydor preformer 600 skimmer, quiet one 6000 return |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
I can see a few simple solutions. One thing you can do is replumb your return line. Valve off that hole in the bottom. Plumb your return line to the wall, up beside your emergency drain and back into the tank near the water surface, if you really wanted to go back into your tank in the opposite side of the overflow, then run the pipe beside your light (still hidden in your canopy and back into the tank. You will have more head loss this way. Another solution is to run your pvc pipe from the bottom of the tank to the water surface - down side is esthetics. You'll have to do rock magic to cover the pipe. Or you can make an aragocrete pipe/rock to hide it all. This is kind of a lot of work, but worth it. I made a fake rock intake for my closed loop and am so glad I did. The other option is to rely on a check valve (I wouldn't personally) If your power goes out and the check valve fails - hopefully it won't fail fully open, if it leaks it will hopefully be small. This option is scary in my opinion. Another option is to make the tank 2 side viewable and have your return pipe running up the end viewing panel and then cover it up with cabinetry/canopy. This too is a lot of work and you have one less viewing panel. This is what I ended up doing with my tank and I struggled with it for a long time because I wanted 3 sides viewable but I didn't want piping above my tank and I didn't want to rely on a check valve. I personally like the external pumps. If you are redoing plumbing now is the time to change out your pump. I hear the Dart golds are awesome. I run a regular old Dart and am happy with it. It's the second loudest part of my system (my wavebox is the loudest), but I don't even have my cabinetry on yet. If you can bear with the noise of the wavebox, then a Dart Gold should do you well - the only thing is like this whole hobby is - it's pricey. One thing your can try is lining the inside of your cabinetry with foam to dampen the noise. Also put a chunk of rubber under the pump, that might help. I hope that this helps. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Des |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() One thing you could do is buy another check valve and swap them out every six months or so to give the original a good soak in vinegar. The biggest cause of leaks is due to a build up of crud on the seal.
__________________
260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() We gotta design ourselves a 1 way nozzle for the ends of my 2 return. something with overlaping flaps on the inside that are pushed open by the water flow. i like your swapping check valve idea but a quick question how do remove the checkvalve? my ball valve cut off is after the check valve. i could go check valve, check valve and the second check valve could be the one i swap out.... and if the permanent one gets loaded with crud so be it check valve 2 the rotational clean one will be up to the task.... i hope
__________________
130g peninsula aquarium 45g sump Tek light 8 bulb fixture, tunze nano wave box, vortech mp-20, rowaspas reactor, carbon, hydor preformer 600 skimmer, quiet one 6000 return |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Somemore random pics...
Our super fat lawnmower Blenny ![]() Tankshot kitchen side ![]() Lime Green Acro ![]() Red Mille ![]() Unknown coral. Anyone know its name ![]() Our Bicolour ![]() Our friendly Foxface ![]() Domino Damsel ![]() tips and polyps ![]()
__________________
130g peninsula aquarium 45g sump Tek light 8 bulb fixture, tunze nano wave box, vortech mp-20, rowaspas reactor, carbon, hydor preformer 600 skimmer, quiet one 6000 return |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Great looking tank! Wish I could get my renos done and get one put in the same place as yours!
I would say that running your returns straight up and then splitting would be your best bet. Have you done "simulated" power outtage yet? What happens? |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Nice tank guys... Glad those colonies are doing well for you!
![]()
__________________
180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|