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#1
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![]() Hi,
Taking the glass apart is the hardest part. I usually use a combination of razor blades (I just buy 100 at Home Depot) and guitar string. Wear gloves or wrap the string aroung a pipe or something to use as a handle on either side, then slowly work the guitar string back and forth to cut the silicone. Guitar string is dirt cheap. Cleaning - second hardest part - I hate it. Again, use razor blades. Keep changing the blades to always have a sharp edge. Scrape as much as you can off. Keep doing it - the better you do this the easier the next step will be. Then you can use a wire brush (sandpaper might work but I've never tried it) and brush the remainder off. If you have a drill, then use a wire brush attachment. Be carefull to only go on the edge so that you don't scratch the glass. Cutting - the easy part. Go to a stain glass shop and get a glass cutter (dont' get the cheap home depot scribe one - I've had less successful experiences with these as it's a scribe and not a wheel). You can get a nice glass cutter for under $20 at a stain glass shop (at least 5 years ago you could). Some will be oil filled, but not necessary. Mark out your lines (keep in might the glass cutter usually is about 1/8" away from the straight edge that you'll be using. Scribe it, you don't have to press hard and NEVER scribe twice. It's really easy, practice on scrap glass if you have any. 2 ways to "snap" it off - 1. hang the "leftover" section over a straight countertop and evenly snap it off - if your scribed line is down, snap in the direction of your scribe line (push the leftover section down) 2. Get pliers from the stained glass shop meant to break glass along scribe line - they'll tell you how to use it. It's not scary - really easy. Siliconing - easy but messy. Clean glass with vinegar and newspaper (I learned this trick from the glass builder at Bow Valley years ago). Mask it off if you don't want it to be super messy, apply silicone and build. Use tape to hold together (fibreglass reinforced tape is what tank builders use because it doesn't stretch) Hope that this helps. (I am no pro, but I found it easy building quite a few small tanks in the past). Good luck and keep us updated. |
#2
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![]() I find cutting old glass is hopelessly hit and miss, and mostly miss at that. Only ever gotten a predictable break line when the glass was perfectly (and I mean PERFECTLY) clean.
If it were me, I'd replace the bottom panel and adjust the stand size. I hate cutting glass. Dez has a golden horseshoe up his rear (sorry man but it's true) and things just "work" for him, if you're like me and basically on the complete other end of the luck spectrum, my suggestion is don't waste your time, you could wind up losing the whole tank. Good luck whatever you decide, and have fun with it. ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#3
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![]() great advice thanks guys.ive got the tank apart now.used a razor and a .003" feeler gauge(destroyed the gauge but its apart)i hear ya on adjusting the stand and not the tank but that would mean stand,canopy overhaul as i would not be happy with the xtra overhang.my neww problem is that the entire tank is built with 3/8.the extra piece that was glued over the cracked bottom is only 1/4.originally i wanted to use the extra bottom to replace the cracked one as i was told it was at least 3/8.the bottom is non floating and sits flat on the stand wothout any trim.the ends and sides sit on top of the bottom.ya think 1/4 inch is enough if the overal measurements will be 40-42"long,20"inches high and 20 inches deep?sitting on a solid level surface.
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Richard |
#4
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![]() I wouldn't use 1/4" for the bottom on that size.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#6
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![]() so 3/8 should be good though right?
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Richard |
#7
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![]() Have you figured out what you are going to do with the tank yet? Keep us updated.
Dez Last edited by Dez; 07-17-2009 at 12:19 PM. |
#8
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![]() well i managed to cut one piece and broke the other.after a trip to the local glass shop im ready to start putting this thing together.toatl measurements are 38"l x 20"h x 22"d.rough capacity is around 70 gal ish.two more question though,1.what is the best silicone to use?so far im planning on GE Silicone 1 100% silicone rubber,thoughts or suggestions please.2.im going to keep the joints as clean as possible and dont plan on any bracing at all, just the glass box, any thoughts on this?the original tank was 8" longer and had absolutley no bracing.the trim was mitered at each corner.thanks.
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Richard |
#9
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![]() i was just reading another forum and have yet another question about this tank.it is a flat bottom.the botton pane si sitting on the stand and the side are butted up to it all around.how should i sit it.directly on the wood or with a piece of foam between tank and stand?
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Richard |
#10
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![]() I would place a thin piece of neoprene foam between the bottom of the tank and the stand... less chance of cracking the bottom pane from uneven 2x4s or whatever.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
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