setting up a sump

[jon.smolders]

I have a 60 gallon FOWLER I am planning to put a sump on. I'm thinking of a mag 9.5 (950 gph (about 770gph after head loss)) and putting a ball valve on the return line to slow it down if I need to. That way if I upgrade to a bigger tank or decide to feed some kind of reactor off the return or whatever I have enough power to do so. You could do the same thing... go bigger and slow it down with a valve.

[BC564]

There is a 33 gal Oceanic sump on here for sale right now out of olds which would be perfect for that setup.

[levi1803]

Originally Posted by jon.smolders

I have a 60 gallon FOWLER I am planning to put a sump on. I'm thinking of a mag 9.5 (950 gph (about 770gph after head loss)) and putting a ball valve on the return line to slow it down if I need to. That way if I upgrade to a bigger tank or decide to feed some kind of reactor off the return or whatever I have enough power to do so. You could do the same thing... go bigger and slow it down with a valve.

If you are setting up from scratch I would go with gate valves as I have ball valves on my setup and they are a PITA, it's really hard to get them set properly as they are so touchy.

[jon.smolders]

Originally Posted by levi1803

If you are setting up from scratch I would go with gate valves as I have ball valves on my setup and they are a PITA, it's really hard to get them set properly as they are so touchy.

Yeah, but they are more expensive, aren't they? $35 compared to $5 for a ball valve. I know I'm definitely on a tight budget (going to school) so I'd like to save money if I can... but I also don't want to cheap out on the vital equipment. Is it really worth the extra $30 or is it just tedious to get the ball valve set right?

[levi1803]

Originally Posted by jon.smolders

Yeah, but they are more expensive, aren't they? $35 compared to $5 for a ball valve. I know I'm definitely on a tight budget (going to school) so I'd like to save money if I can... but I also don't want to cheap out on the vital equipment. Is it really worth the extra $30 or is it just tedious to get the ball valve set right?

Well I think my main problem is that I have two ball valves, one on the return and one coming from the overflow, so that could most of my problem, I adjust one a bit to keep the water level in the overflow right, then have to run back and adjust the other one, it's a back and forth process that seems to take forever to get right. If you just have one coming from the return a ball valve may be ok.

Elliot

[mark]

Should be able to run your return un-restricted (unless a Herbie then the primary only valved) and the overflow will balance. That is assuming your overflow drain can handle you pump (1" bulkhead good for 600 gph, 1.5"-1300gph, 2"-2300gph).

[trouble]

thanks for your input guys and the warm welcome its nice to get onto a forum where information is shared instead of coveted, been on some in the past where if you havent been doing it for a while then then you are considered unworthy to get involved in the conversation. my power heads are koralia 1& 3 are they not considered a high flow type?if not than what would be a good make to look at. as of yet i am unfamiliar with a good portion of the available products.

[trouble]

thanks for your input guys and the warm welcome its nice to get onto a forum where information is shared instead of coveted, been on some in the past where if you havent been doing it for a while then then you are considered unworthy to get involved in the conversation. my power heads are koralia 1& 3 are they not considered a high flow type?if not than what would be a good make to look at. as of yet i am unfamiliar with a good portion of the available products. am looking at purchasing a supreme mag drive 1200 or an eheim universal 1262.

[Ripwoop]

If it where me i would replace the Koralia #1 with a #3. That will put you into the 20's x turnover. You should be able to use the #1 for mixing water changes.