Total Failure

[Canadian]

A few things:

1. Yes your ammonia is high - too high.

2. Yes your pH is too low (assuming your test kit is accurate - check it with a pH probe/pen)

3. Nitrite is basically considered non-toxic if you look more closely at the chemistry information posted by Randy on RC

4. Your slow drip acclimation is probably doing more harm than good for your fish - again another well discussed topic on RC. Over the years I have adopted the float, cut, drain, and dump method of fish acclimation and have had more success than I ever did with slow acclimation. However, given your low pH I don't think any acclimation procedure is going to give your fish much of a fighting chance.

[Fox]

All of you have told me that my pH is too low but no one has suggested how to solve it. On top of all that everyone has a different suggestion as to what I am doing wrong which just adds to me theory that everything I am doing is wrong.

If I cant use tap water then I might as well quit now because I am not putting any more equipment into this tank and I am not going to buy huge jugs of water just for the tank.


My ammonia is too high...Great...how do I fix it? Just water changes over the next few weeks?

My pH is too High...Once again...How do I fix that...

Why is slow dripping bad for the fish...Seems to be 2 schools of thought on that...and if it was slow dripping that hurt them then why did they last for so long afterward and then suddenly die.

I dont know what kind of salt I am using...

My test kits suck...ok great...What test kits don't suck so I can buy the right one?

My gravity is too low...I have read so much conflicting information on this I don't know who to believe any more...

Sorry if I seem ungrateful but the more people that respond with something different, the more discouraged I get.

[subman]

What brand of salt are you using?

[alfredshouse]

I am just getting over a major tank crash, I lost all my fish over night. However, I did learn alot. My suggestion is, go to the LFS and buy an O2 test kit, they are only $15. I had no O2 in my tank, none. I now have a sump and I raised my O2 using airstones and a few other tricks. Oh yah, the LFS cannot test for O2 because the water has to be tested as soon as it comes out of the tank. Hope this helps.

[Fox]

Thanks for the tip...I have an air stone in there but I will pick up a tester just in case...

Anyone have any thoughts on the salt I was using? Just to recap I am using Coralife Scientific grade Marine salt. It's almost an empty bag and once its done I have a big tub of instant ocean sea salt.

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by Fox

Thanks for the tip...I have an air stone in there but I will pick up a tester just in case...

Anyone have any thoughts on the salt I was using? Just to recap I am using Coralife Scientific grade Marine salt. It's almost an empty bag and once its done I have a big tub of instant ocean sea salt.

I used Coralife salt once, it didn't kill anything, but I would recommend the Instant Ocean instead. Just a better salt, IMO.
Oh, and I wouldn't waste money on an O2 test kit. Unless you get a major die off, or huge algae bloom, your O2 levels will be fine. Maintaining decent flow in your tank is sufficient to off gas the CO2, and O2 just loves to replace it. Most tanks with normal temps and stocking will always have sufficient O2.

[Fox]

In your opinion, is a single power head good enough flow for a 33 gallon tank with 50 lbs or rock? I have been debating getting a second power head with an oscillating head or replacing the one I have with one...