Need RO set up help...

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

So...I was just thinking...if I shut off the coldwater with the valve on the right there, that will shut off the cold water going to the faucet but its not going to shut off the cold water supply completely. So I would have to have the cold water turned off...well I have no idea where. I am in a condo and I assume I would have to have the building shut the water off for me?

I was just thinking too...I used my last RO unit for year with it attached to the faucet. Seems to me then that I should be able to tap into that grey line that goes up to the sink and still have enough pressure. That can't be less pressure than I had through the actual faucet right? Shouldn't it actually be more since there is less distance?

If I did tap into that line, what fittings would I use?

I have figure out the drain and its actually going to be quite simple and easy.

[mark]

That's all you have to do.

Get a Tee with compression fitting that will work on the grey line. Could use the existing valve as your only shutoff, but handy to get a second valve for after the tee for servicing your ro without interferring with the sink's tap, though not really required. For when you move just replace the grey line (now with the tee) with another continuous piece.

If you don't mind going without water for a bit just turn off the valve, take out the grey line (between the valve and the faucet), grab a piece of the water line for your ro unit, go to HD depot the show them what your planning. Since the grey line is probably bigger than the one for the ro, you'll need a tee and reducer.

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer

So...I was just thinking...if I shut off the coldwater with the valve on the right there, that will shut off the cold water going to the faucet but its not going to shut off the cold water supply completely. So I would have to have the cold water turned off...well I have no idea where. I am in a condo and I assume I would have to have the building shut the water off for me?

I was just thinking too...I used my last RO unit for year with it attached to the faucet. Seems to me then that I should be able to tap into that grey line that goes up to the sink and still have enough pressure. That can't be less pressure than I had through the actual faucet right? Shouldn't it actually be more since there is less distance?

If I did tap into that line, what fittings would I use?

I have figure out the drain and its actually going to be quite simple and easy.

1. Yes, I don't know how your condo is set up so if you want to tap in before the cold water shut off, you'll have to find out where the main shutoff to that line is. Check some of the other rooms in your condo that also have plumbing, sinks, toilets, laundry etc. You might find a main shutoff there somewhere, otherwise....

2. Yes, you can tap into the grey line, I was just thinking out loud there. I don't know what your RO/DI specs are for water pressure for a 100 gpd membrane. The smaller line may actually give you more since it's kind of a venturi effect going from the large supply line to the sink supply. But it's like any plumbing, every valve and fitting is going to create a slight pressure loss. I'm not a plumber though so I can't say for sure what that may be.

3. Any home/building supply store will have a bunch of these little grey sink adapter lines (as well as rigid stainless plated copper ones) laying around in a bin somewhere. Grab one and start hunting around in the other bins for appropriate fittings, they shouldn't be far away. Take your red RO/DI line with you if you can so you can test fit the fittings in the store or at least show the staff what you're trying to do.

4. Yep, the drain should be pretty straightforward, not a lot of pressure involved, just need to make sure you've got an adequate seal.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by mark

That's all you have to do.

Get a Tee with compression fitting that will work on the grey line. Could use the existing valve as your only shutoff, but handy to get a second valve for after the tee for servicing your ro without interferring with the sink's tap, though not really required. For when you move just replace the grey line (now with the tee) with another continuous piece.

If you don't mind going without water for a bit just turn off the valve, take out the grey line (between the valve and the faucet), grab a piece of the water line for your ro unit, go to HD depot the show them what your planning. Since the grey line is probably bigger than the one for the ro, you'll need a tee and reducer.

Might be a really stupid question but what kind of fittings am I looking for? All I found at my HD is brass. Didn't seem like the right stuff.

They also did not have anything small enough to use as a valve for the RO line (1/4" OD)...the smallest they had was again brass and 3/8".

Ughh...this is getting frustrating.

Any reason I can't just use the vampire teeth? Are they meant for actual pipes? Im guessing not meant for tubing?

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

For the drain I got the 1-1/2" "Y" fitting and a reducer that gets me from 1-1/2" down to 1/2" but again thats as small as I can go with fittings from my HD. They had nothing to go any smaller. I think I may have a 1/2" to 3/8" on an old Ozone Reactor I built but that doesn't do much since the waste water line on the RO unit is 1/4" OD.

Jeez...I though this would be a snap. The only reason I am in any hurry is that I have no more RO water in my top off and I am watching the sump water go down more and more by the hour

Gonna have to use dechloronized tap water tonight I guess.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Might go back again tonight to figure this out...if brass is ok to use?

[mike31154]

Sure, brass should be fine, looks like that's what is on your red RO/DI line saddle clamp anyway. You might ask about nylon compression fittings too. They may be in a different aisle but shouldn't be too far from the other plumbing stuff. The only other thing that comes to mind is 'john guest' fittings?

If you have the clearance at the cold water shut off, you're best bet may be to go with the 'vampire' saddle clamp fitting. You'll still want a shut off valve for the RO/DI though. No getting around that.

[mark]

Nothing wrong with brass, it's all fresh water.

If your going with the extra valve just get one for after the tee and reducer for the 1/4" line (like the on in the picture with blue handle).

You unit didn't come with a saddle tee for the drain (looks a lot like the piercing valve but bigger and no valve)?

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by mike31154

Sure, brass should be fine, looks like that's what is on your red RO/DI line saddle clamp anyway. You might ask about nylon compression fittings too. They may be in a different aisle but shouldn't be too far from the other plumbing stuff. The only other thing that comes to mind is 'john guest' fittings?

If you have the clearance at the cold water shut off, you're best bet may be to go with the 'vampire' saddle clamp fitting. You'll still want a shut off valve for the RO/DI though. No getting around that.

I would like to try to do this without the vampire thing I think...

When I was in HD I did find all the stuff I would need to get the intake side of the RO unit working (Would look kind of frankensteined together with all the reducers and such) but I couldn't find a way to work out the drain side.

I guess I could use all kinds of reducers and make it work but it just seems like such a mess to do it that way.

They do have a VERY limited amount of John Guest fittings but nothing small enough.

I think unless I go to another HD I will have to use brass. I am fine with that but just wanted to make sure it was safe to use.

And yes of course, the fittings on the unit are brass

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Ok, well I am going to go ahead and make the trek to a different HD and find the right stuff. It just seems so dumb to live across the street from HD and have to go to a different one 30 mins. away

But the HD across from me is a joke....they call it a "new kind of depot" and do not carry much building supplies (not even 2x4's!!!). If you need tiles or tropical plants though, you have quite the selection. It should be called "Home Depot Lite"...