Tank heaters revisited

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by nazerine

I use ebo heaters, but I try not to submerse them. The thermostat dial moves on the outside, and of course moves something on the inside; so in my mind that tells me water COULD get inside somehow.

When possible I don't submerge them, like in my main setup. But I have stock tank full of rock, and the heater is somewhere in the bottom

I'm with Nazerine on this one. There is a mechanical linkage on most heaters to dial in the desired temperature. That mechanical linkage is the weak 'link' in the case of this type of heater. The fewer electrical cords in the water the better off you are. Standards, schmandards, while I agree they are needed, essential even, I've also seen and heard of sufficient mishaps with equipment certified to a certain standard. When it comes to electricity and water I prefer to err on the side of caution. I keep my heater within the waterline markings at all times and turn it off well before lowering the water level or removing it.

I do have a small powerhead with a partially submerged cord running my skimmer, but there is no linkage involved as is the case with the heater. It's completely encased in epoxy with nothing entering except the cord itself. So I'm putting my trust into the integrity of the insulation and epoxy. If I could figure out a way to raise it a little without running the pump dry, I'd do it in a heartbeat. My safety valve in this case is that it is connected to a GFCI ciruit so that if I happen to become the path to ground for 120 volts AC, the GFCI will trip before there's sufficient current flow to take me out. My other power head is a VorTech which has all the electrical components on the outside of the tank. If you're submerging your powerheads, look at getting the newer 12 or 24 volt DC types when the time comes to replace them. Lower voltage poses much less danger near or in the water. The trend with the newer controllable power heads is DC voltage vs 120 volt AC. Safety is one reason and ease of control is the other.

[sphelps]

You're both wrong, you shouldn't use heaters in saltwater that can't be fully submersed. You're also better off using the titanium heaters since they don't smash and the seals are better.

Cut your losses and the arguments, buy new titanium heaters and split the cost.

[Pan]

Originally Posted by sphelps

You're both wrong, you shouldn't use heaters in saltwater that can't be fully submersed. You're also better off using the titanium heaters since they don't smash and the seals are better.

Cut your losses and the arguments, buy new titanium heaters and split the cost.

[Red Coral Aquariums]

The titanium submersible heaters with external controllers are the way to go.
From the directions sheet.
" The titanium tubing resists corrosion caused by salt water or ph fluctuation of water"
On the other hand many submersible glass heaters do not specify if they are salt water resistant. I am slowly changing the store over to the titanium heaters as I am tired of getting shocked. Logic states keep the electronics out of the water. LOL

mytworotties;
You are doing everything correctly (unplugging during H2O change and keeping the electronics out of the water) but if you want a true submersible you would need a titanium element with controller.

Cheers
Kevin

[brizzo]

Originally Posted by sphelps

You're both wrong, you shouldn't use heaters in saltwater that can't be fully submersed. You're also better off using the titanium heaters since they don't smash and the seals are better.

Cut your losses and the arguments, buy new titanium heaters and split the cost.

I'm not sure what we're right or wrong about ?? I was agreeing they aren't designed to be submerged, yet people do.

Whats the difference using heaters in salt vs fresh ? Salt creep penetrating ?

[mark]

leaky and broken heaters, another reason for a GFI

[StirCrazy]

EBO Jagers are submersable heaters, the funny thing is in canada they will say not to submerse them under water but in the US they are a submersable heater, I have used them for many years in both fresh and salt water tanks submersed, along with a few other brands. Having said that I will not use Ebo Jagers anymore, when they fail they have over an 80% change of failing on, along with most other heaters you can buy. and I cooked a frag tank that way.

I do like the titanium ones, which is funny as they even say not submersable on the package hehe, but I hat ones that were sold in the US so they worked

thee is also a new one which is ceramic and so far I like that one also.

Steve

[Canadian]

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/a...-to-know!.aspx

Another opinion.

[trilinearmipmap]

I've gone through a couple of titanium heaters (with external controller) and both heaters failed on me so I gave up on them.

Currently using Stealth submerged heaters with no problems so far.

[my2rotties]

That is what my husband came home with today. It has an outside heat control and I feel much better about it now.

Originally Posted by sphelps

You're both wrong, you shouldn't use heaters in saltwater that can't be fully submersed. You're also better off using the titanium heaters since they don't smash and the seals are better.

Cut your losses and the arguments, buy new titanium heaters and split the cost.