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#1
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Rubber tends to fall apart in salt water would be the reason for not seeing much for rubber gaskets.
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#2
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Rubber will, yes, getting hardening with SW then release the polutions into the SW. Bad idea, to me.
I have not much experience in this, but I am sure that's how it will turn out. |
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#3
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i have used those clamps on fish farms and they do not last, i would go with the ones made for coupling PVC that are a bit more expensive, but very reliable, or you could use a straight coupler and glue them in properly.
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#4
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I might be a bit confused, but wouldn't it be easier to replace the bulkheads and replumb the tank with new PVC?
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Robb |
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#5
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I wouldn't use the rubber. You could, however, glue in unions (rather than couplers) where the cut pipes join, that way you can disassemble and reassemble anytime you need to.
Having said that though, if it was me, I'd just replace the bulkheads and replumb. It's a pain in the you-know-what, but if I was setting up a "new" (new to me) tank I'd want to be starting fresh...
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#6
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Quote:
Next question... the return bulkheads are all under the surface of the water. I THINK I have enough room in my sump if the power goes out to cover the backflow (about 25 gallons of free space before my sump would overflow) Should I be using some sort of check valve? What type would work best? |
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#7
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A PVC flap check will run you about $30, they work pretty good but they can get stuck. Don't bet the hardwood on it, make sure you have enough room in the sump if it fails.
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#8
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Quote:
![]() It is a center overflow and the returns can be adjusted on all 3 sides. Turns out to be a lot of PVC in there... (The drain pipe has already been removed.) |
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