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View Poll Results: In a perfect world, would you want 220V available for your tank? | |||
Yes |
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33 | 42.31% |
No |
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45 | 57.69% |
Voters: 78. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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![]() It would be useful for some of the european equipment...
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#2
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![]() The ballasts I have, at least some of them, are multitap - I could run them on 220, 360 or 480 (or whatever the other voltages are).
But a watt is a watt. I still really don't know if there's a benefit to running one voltage over another. Moot point anyhow now, looking at Home Depot though my jaw hit the floor when I saw the cost of copper. My plans to string 8 or 10 guage and use 20-amp breakers quickly dissipated. 14 guage and 15A will have to do, and this was already a dismaying cost for 200' of wire. Crazy. Anyhow, so I more or less decided against running the 220V circuit on the spot then. PS. Yeah, call the presses, I've been working on the tank project! ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#3
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![]() The benefit of running higher voltages is that it draws less amps. And less amps = less heat and less heat is better efficency which translates to better over all power consumption.
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180 gallon SPS Dominated reef, Reeflo Orca 200 skimmer,Proline Zeovit reactor,3 250 watt halides in lumenarc mini reflectors and 2 vortecs for flow Numerous corals,2 purple tangs,choclate mimic tang,Foxface,Solar wrasse,male and female lubbocks wrasse,hoevens wrasse,Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse,Blue Sided Fairy Wrasse,yellow wrasse,3 Yellowstripe Anthias,True percand S.Gigantea anemone |
#4
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![]() I considered it in the design phase. While I thought that I could slightly improve my energy consumption (very, very slightly), I found it difficult to obtain 220V pieces of equipment...so I went with 110V.
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436 |
#5
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![]() No, not Less heat. Less copper size required. Heat is Watts. Volts = Amps. Double the voltage, you halve the amps. BUT, the Watts/HEAT is still the same. Now, if you were talking line Loss, then yes, higher voltage, less heat created due to less line loss. But that only comes into play on longer cable runs not typically found in the residential areas
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#6
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![]() How different is 220 from 240? As soon as we get talking about 3 phase and whatnot I kind of zone out because it's over my head. How do you run a 240 circuit?
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#7
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![]() Quote:
Just remember, Lower the voltage, the more current is needed for the same Power/Watts. And FYI, a HP for an electric motor, is equivalent to 746Watts, regardless of voltage. Watts=HP. So, for a 1HP motor, running at 240v =3.1 amps same motor running 120V =6.2 amps It's the same Watts(746) But the current draw on the wires is less. now, if it was a 10HP, it would be 31amps or 62. THAT'S a large cable size difference.
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#8
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![]() So are GFCI receptacles or circuit breakers for 220 easy enough to source? Do they even exist? I'm fairly certain you can't install a conventional GFCI device into a 3 wire circuit, black/red/white/green (green earth wire is not counted). With two hot wires, black and red feeding current through the single white neutral, there's going to be an imbalance, tripping the GFCI. So the next question would be, how comfortable are you hooking up devices near/in the water without GFCI protection?
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#9
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![]() If you're gonna run any bulbs that are 400 w or more I would suggest using 240 for your lighting. The coolest thing about the 240 power is that you can buy large scale timers and if you have multiple lighting systems in your fishroom(or living room in my case!) they can all run off of the same timer.
Also you gain the benefit of less heat on your ballsts 'cause they don't have to work as hard to generate the charge. ![]()
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90 gal with 55 gal sump dual 250 double ended hqi 14k geisseman, 33 gal prop tank geisseman 150 hqi 14500k,two cpr refugiums,P.M. calcuim reactor,tunze wavebox. 12 gal nano 55 gal freshwater planted/jaguar tank with sump, pc lighting, co2 ![]() |
#10
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![]() Hmmmm, would the decreased heat really be noticeable? Ie., do they still get hot, just not "as hot" ? Or is it pretty significantly different?
I'd just hate to find out AFTER going through the effort and expense of stringing the wire for 220 (240? whatever it is) that it's a sort of "here's your nickle per month that you save! <pling!>" type situation. One follow up question for you electricians, what gauge wire does a person need for 240? 8 gauge? 10 gauge? (Distance from panel to room is roughly 50' {including the distance to ceiling and back}, in case that info is necessary to make the determination..)
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Delphinus; 07-07-2008 at 10:32 PM. |
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