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#1
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very good question, and if your chaeto isn't growing that fast is it really a bad thing?????? lack of N & P can't be bad. i would not dose anything to raise N&P that is just counter productive, and i would never dose anything you aren't / can't test for, always ends bad. what is the red macro for, get rid of it ( unless it is tang delight for future feeding ) don't add caulerpa, it can be nasty and isn't worth the risk. chaeto likes a lot of flow, move it up and think tumbleweed ![]()
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` 120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC Water Movement: Seio 1500, (2) Hydor Koralia 4's Lighting: 400W SE MH with 14K Aqua Connect Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4 / AC reactor |
#2
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![]() Hi a4twenty,
the caulerpa species are over 50 kinds. The most common types you can obtain are normally easy to control and maintain when you really have the experience to plant them. I have over 20 types of marco algae in my fowlr tanks |
#3
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![]() Thanks for all the responses. I have the red macro because it is nicer to look at, the urchin likes it and it outcompetes the chaeto so likely good for nutrient export. There isn't much flow, but I'm not sure I want another powerhead to add heat and take up space.
Seems like the best way to go might be just get rid of the urchin. I'll add another fish soon, which will provide some extra fertilizer too. Regards, Nevin |
#4
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if the macro is being consumed in the tank the nutrients are just being cycled but never actually leave the system. you need to trim and remove the macro to actually export nutrients.
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` 120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC Water Movement: Seio 1500, (2) Hydor Koralia 4's Lighting: 400W SE MH with 14K Aqua Connect Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4 / AC reactor |
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