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#1
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Alberta. Land of Monster Bucks. |
#2
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Here's a pic which might spell it out better, this is the old acrylic sump: ![]() My next stand will have a wider area to work in as finding an 11.5" sump is a real pain in the butt also I'd like to get rid of that brace in the middle but I have no idea how one does that in a wooden stand. I suppose I'll go with a metal stand next time, people seem to have success those ones for "openness" below. I ended up getting a custom tank built for the sump which is 36"x11.5"x16" which is about the maximum I could fit in there, it could have been a bit longer but I wanted to tuck my calcium reactor in the stand as well so I left room for that. Also: 1)I like internal skimmers, if they overflow, they overflow into your sump, no harm done for your floors. However, I have never had an external skimmer. 2)Not every tank needs a refugium and I think they're more work than they're worth. IMO, they're not for everyone (or me anyways) 3)If the power goes out, a fair amount of water will backsiphon through your return hose. Many people will drill a small hole just above the surface of the water so that the tank won't be drained to the level of the return's entry. This way the siphon is broken and you don't end up overflowing your sump. Always run your sump to a level that can hold the extra water of both the backsiphon and the skimmer in case of a power outage or pump failure. A good way to test this is after getting water in the system, keep the sump level very low and mark it. Drill the hole in the return line just above the level of the tank water. Then shut off your tank and skimmer and watch the sump fill. Then measuring the difference between the two you can find a comfortable level to keep the sump water at. 4). An ATO is an Auto Top-Off system to replace evaporated tank water with fresh water. Many people use a float valve for this. Or you can buy complete systems that work electronically. This way the salinity in your tank is stable and not fluctuating while waiting for you to add topoff water manually (and for larger tanks it can be a gallon or two a day). I have my ATO setup with a rubbermaid reservoir that is hooked up to a float valve in my sump. The reservoir holds about a weeks worth of water so I'm not continually having to make water to replenish it. (you can see in the pic above I used a smaller rubbermaid which wasn't as convenient, I had to fill it every 2 days).
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#3
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![]() I had similar experiences here. Built my stand way before I had even considered a sump, in the end I had to remove parts of the stand to fit the biggest sump I posibly could.
Try and buy your equipment before building a sump, that way you can custom fit everything as needed. There is no point having a huge skimmer area if you end up with a skimmer with a small footprint, on the other had, if you end up having a larger skimmer, you'll want to make sure you have enough room to fit it in. When you are selecting a skimmer, be sure you have enough vertical clearance in the stand to be able to easily remove the collection cup for cleaning, this was a really big issue for me as there wasn't alot of vertical space inside my stand.. Alot of skimmers are 20"+ and then need a bit more for the removal of the cup, just something to watch for. As mentiioned a in an earlier post, make your return section as large as possible if you aren't going to be using an ATO. As the rest of the sumps water levels are maintained by baffles or dividers, any evap will cause the water level in the return section to drop, you don't want the pump cavatating/sucking air as water in the system evaporates. I lose about a gallon / day. You'll also want to leave space for any heaters/probes/ phosban reactors etc etc, lots to consider . A good site to start at is: here HTH ![]()
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-captainhemo |
#4
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![]() Wow you guys and girls are amazing. What good info.
What you all seem to be saying is buy the internal skimmer, external pump, ATO with baffles, external heater, and determine the return size according to your tank size and return hoses, etc. to set your baffle placements. I know i have missed some things like reactors. thanks for the heads up. Then design the sump and (sump overhead room for plumbing) and stand to fit. Here's a question: Have you ever considered installing/building in a rubber floor under the sump to catch any spills?
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Alberta. Land of Monster Bucks. |
#5
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![]() # 1 reccomendation, read as much as posible before you build, it's simple to make changes now, not so simple after you've already started
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-captainhemo |
#6
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One important thing is to consider is how to get water into the top off resevoir when it's in the stand. If the stand's not built yet maybe make it tall enough to get a small bucket into the stand to dump water in. Otherwise scooping water in with a little rubbermaid container SUCKS ![]() Do you have room surrounding the tanks in case you want to add a refugium, another system, etc etc? If so then you shouldn't have to stress too much right now because you can add as you go.
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
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