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#1
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![]() So you think equipment should be bought first? Then build the sump to fit as best as possible? This could work.
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Alberta. Land of Monster Bucks. |
#2
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![]() Thats the only way I've had to rebuild twice,another tip dont go by manufacturers dimensions that was the reason for one of my rebuilds. I just bought a new skimmer and built the sump around it,the water level is perfect for my skimmer and doesnt fluctate because of special baffles, and I went with a lower tank to gain better access to my collection cup its a dream to work with trust me equipment first lol
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#3
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![]() heres another pointer setup the feed hose for your skimmer run it into a five gallon bucket and time how long it takes to fill,from that you can calculate your pump size. A little underpowered is good,it lets you adjust flow from the skimmer side because if you turn the valve on the pump side down you'll put strain on the pump due to backpressure and prematurelly burn out your pump
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#4
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![]() Quote:
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Alberta. Land of Monster Bucks. |
#5
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![]() If any flow needs to be turned down it should be the skimmer flow not the flow off the pump side so a pump that pumps a little less than the skimmer is better than a pump that pumps more than the skimmer make sense? When they sell pumps its rated by head (length of vertical pump) now if you also run this through a partially closed valve it increases your head/backpressure to a point your pump cant handle. This is all based on the fact that you will have a flow control valve on both the in and out lines in your sump
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#6
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![]() Quote:
__________________
Alberta. Land of Monster Bucks. |
#7
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![]() yes,the supply line for your sump just after the overflow/skimmer.
a SLIGHTLLY weaker pump will acomplish this for an example say your overflow flows at 310gph a good pump to use would be a 300. Dont forget to account for head for example I have 4 foot of rise from my sump so my pump needs to pump 300gph at 4 foot of head.......its easier than it sounds lol good luck |
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