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#1
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![]() Quote:
![]() Oh, and refer to Catherine's munchies thread for my favourite snacks. LOL. Just kidding. Maybe.
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~Drew 10G Nano * 10G Sump * Deltec MCE 600 Skimmer * JBL Viper 150w MH * Zeovit * Vortech MP40W Millions long for immortality who do not know what to do with themselves on a rainy Sunday afternoon. ~S. Ertz ![]() Last edited by Der_Iron_Chef; 02-26-2008 at 09:20 PM. |
#2
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![]() this is fr Aqua-safe:
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#3
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![]() Quote:
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- Greg 90G : Light - Tek 6xT5 | Skim - EuroReef RS135 | Flow - 2xVortech MP40W | Control - Reef Keeper 2 |
#4
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![]() Oh and when I asked Aquasafe the exact same questions about removing the tubes. They offered the following. I t helped me so maybe it will help you.
To release the tubing push the ring on the connector that is holding the tubing in toward the connector and pull the tubing out/down( see step 2.4 second sentence) . I have repasted the instructions, all the picture should appear. |
#5
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![]() Not trying to hijack but I am having the same problems.
Wouldn't the ro/di unit filter out the copper from the copper lines? Most older houses have copper lines. I am concerned as I have the same unit and all I Have is copper lines. What do you mean by plastic to plastic on the connectors? I can't seem to get my connections to stop leaking. ![]() Anyone know what to do with or how to use the pressure meter? I asked aquasafe and they told me to store it in my toolbox, ie. that it is useless, but their advertising says it is something you need and other stuff I have read implies the same. Just....there is nowhere to put the thing... |
#6
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![]() What is the point of the "reservoir tank"? I don't see how the water even gets out of there....
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#7
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![]() The connectors are a real basic design. You just push the tube into the connector all the way and bam you are done. I know I tried to use tubing from a different RO unit with them and I got leaks so I had Aqua Safe send me some of their tubing and everything was fine.
As for the resevoir If you have the faucet closed then the water will build up in the resevoir until a certain pressure is reached at which point no more water will be flowing through the system. The point of the resevoir is to provide a faster flow of water from when you initially go to use your water. Without it you would get the standard drip drip flow rate when you went to fill a container or aquarium. |
#8
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![]() The water is sent into a rubber bladder inside the cannister that pressurizes against the trapped air in the cannister. Push water in under pressure, and it expands against the trapped air. Open a valve, and the air pushes back and provides a few gallons of water on demand.
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#9
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![]() The reservoir is to get you a few gallons more less right away and not having to wait to fill a glass or pot etc at the low rate from the unit itself.
Reservoir is filled when the faucet line is turned off and "reservoir" discharged through the last filter when the faucet is opened and under pressure from the bladder inside the tank. If you decide not to use the last filter just get a JG tee from HD or somewhere. The pressure gauge is really only needed once at set up to get an idea of the pressure of supply and maybe troubleshooting if have problems later. I have mine tee'd between supply and ro/di unit. Copper, really don't think you have to worry about how much the house lines will add between the flushing from everyday use and the scale that will coat the inside. |
#10
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![]() The black 1/4" hose is waste water from the RO/DI unit. I think I had to purchase three separate pieces to make this work, actually: the "y" adapter, the valve, and then the piece that connects the 1/4" hosing to the valve. I don't EXACTLY remember
![]() ![]() From a different angle: ![]() This is my unit as it looks right now. Because I'm cheap, I didn't fill the DI canister full of new resin, and so I just tip it...lol. Whatever--I consistently get a TDS of 0 when all is said and done ![]() ![]() |
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