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#1
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![]() Hey all I am building a a 150G tank and I had a question, I went on to the Garf website and used their tank building calculator, and it told me to raise the bottom pain a 1/4" so it is never sitting on the stand....Is the right, just thinking that the silicone is transfering the entire wait of the tank to the edges sounds scary!!
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500G Mixed Reef ![]() __________________________________ Electrician, Electronics Technician, I can help with any electrical questions you might have!! __________________________________ Kevin |
#2
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![]() someone once told me that glass is way stronger under compression than trying to bend it so unless the edges are sitting on a nial or some thing it would be stronger with the bottem raised
now i wont be held responsibale if it dont work but think about it what happines if you try bend a window breaks easy right now take same pice and try to crush it and see how much extra it takes to break personaly i would get the bottem tempered on a bigger tank but thats just me hope this helps and dont confuse you more ![]() but most for the tanks i have seen have the bottems raised a bit unless there custome built then its just easyer to make them with the bottem not raised |
#3
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![]() Quote:
Well if you look at the tanks that Hagen builds they have the black strip on the tank that has it sitting about 1/4" off the stand, However the bottom piece is tempered. Now with that being said when not tempered you need to have some piece of styofoam under the tank in case the stand is not 100% level to react to the uneven stand and give you a piece of mind just in case the stand shifts...
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#4
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![]() well when you buy a tank yes the bottom is raised 1/4" but they also have the black bottom trim to help hold the bottom together, my question is, is how strong would that joint between the bottom and sides and front be if it wasn't reinforced by the trim piece....if you think about it on a 150 gal with water sand rock and what not pushing down on that bottom pain is the silcone joint strong enough without that trim piece to hold like 800lbs of presure??
or should I just build it with the bottom piece actually on the bottom, garf said I only need 3/8" glass on the bottom but I am gonna gop with either 1/2" or 5/8" glass on the bottom...I don't want to use tempered because I need to drill 3 holes in it!!
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500G Mixed Reef ![]() __________________________________ Electrician, Electronics Technician, I can help with any electrical questions you might have!! __________________________________ Kevin |
#5
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![]() just a thought skip the glass and go with arbourite i once had a 55 gallon breeder setup with a 3/4 piece of arbourite for the bottom worked great at the same time drilling it would be a breeze
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always just 2cents until im broke |
#6
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![]() Quote:
If you choose to not use a frame, ensure that your stand is perfect, and even at that I would use foam or carpet underlay.
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My Tank: 135G display, 45G Sump, 20G top off. 2 x 400 W, Bullet 1.5, Snapper Return, Profilux. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My Photo Website |
#7
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![]() I always use foam below my tanks, even on factory bought ones...
__________________
500G Mixed Reef ![]() __________________________________ Electrician, Electronics Technician, I can help with any electrical questions you might have!! __________________________________ Kevin |
#8
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![]() Bow Valley sells tons of tanks, and I think most of them (mine included) has the sides and ends resting on the bottom piece. If you have an adequately strong and level stand with a piece of foam inbetween, you should be fine. I would go as thick as possible on the bottom piece if drilling holes and non-tempered, though...
I had a 33 gal freshie tank bust open once upstairs and would go to EXTREME lengths to prevent such an occurence...especially with a big reef.
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90gal Starfire mixed reef, 400W MH (Giesemann 13K megachrome/Icecap E-ballast), (2) 54W T5 Giesemann true actinic, 45gal sump (65W 50/50 PC), ASM G-3 Skimmer, Mak 4 return, Sequence Dart closed loop, foam backdrop, 120 lbs LR, 2" sandbed, & 1 dillhole running the show. |
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