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#1
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![]() Quote:
Levi |
#2
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![]() Natural sunlight at the equator at noon is 5000k when the equator is pretty much closest to the sun. As you move further north or south the colour temp changes. 6700k is daylight deluxe as sylvania I think calls it. Chroma 50s were probably (emphisis on probably) one of the first true daylight tubes, at 5000k it is a tri phosphor meaning it contained red/blue/yellow phosphors. Don't forget, what is rated at 10,000 by one company may appear just like a 14,000k that another company puts out. As was said, 6500/6700 is great for coral growth but it doesn't always look as appealing to our eyes.
Doug |
#3
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![]() Doug,
I noticed in your signature that you show having 50,000k HOt5's....where did you get those bulbs if I may ask.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#4
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![]() im using 14,500k halides and t5's it looks pretty good and i hope that doesnt really slow down coral growth or anything
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#5
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![]() I like 15K, still gives you good colour and the growth is decent
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#6
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![]() Any discussion of colour and growth potential with respect MH bulbs in purely general terms is pointless without reference to Sanjay Joshi's testing:
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/ Choose your ballast, choose your bulb and off you go. PPFD (a.k.a PAR) and CCT (a.k.a. colour) are the most important columns. Actual power consumption in term of watts is useful as well. Of course colour preference is purely subjective and mixing in supplemental lighting such as actinics adds to the choices you have. Having supplemental actinics gives you more flexibility since you can use a bulb with higher PAR which are GENERALLY in the lower-K more yellow range. |
#7
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![]() i get good growth out of my 15k's but the colors especially pop-put when the bulbs are newer
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33g fowlr / 20g sump / 400 watt pendant / Euro-Reef RC80~~~~lavendar tang, lemon butterfly, snowflake eel, hawaiian spotted puffer, tomato clown, chomis.. My reef~http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...-/P4300459.jpg |
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