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  #1  
Old 11-13-2007, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat View Post
Ya, if your sump can handle the whole tank draining down to the level of your drains, then no problem. I would, for piece of mind want my sump to be able to hold all the tank water down to drain level. That way, if there is a problem in future, you know for sure that the sump will not overflow.
Yeah I would too but this is a Herbie overflow and therefore the bulkhead is on the bottom and no stand pipe except for the emergency one. This is actually why I wanted a bit of a standpipe but people here were telling me not to have one at all. On RC I have seen most people use a short standpipe for the main drain of the herbie.

Thing is, its a small leak at the bottom of the overflow but if the power went out, it could drain the entire tank, slowly. I hope I can just add more silicone ontop of whats there but Im not sure. How can I tell if I need to cut it all out or just put a good layer ontop?

The overflow itself is very stable and well attached. I tried before to pull it off to see how well it was attached and it wouldnt budge. I used so much silicone on the outside of the overflow that Im really surprised it has a leak! I think it may be just in the corner where the overflow glass meets the tanks silicone.
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:40 PM
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I don't know how to make the call on pre-cutting the old or just gooping over top.

When I make an overflow, it's never a thing of beauty and it usually takes me 2 or 3 tries before it's completely watertight (I usually just goop over top).

I suppose you could try gooping over top and see how it goes. Hope for a lucky break Or if you're feeling ambitious, just cut it and reseal it. But it's probably worth resealing on both sides of the overflow (if you can).
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:41 PM
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Ahh, ya. I was thinking about the herbie style, but with my first time siliconing plexi to glass, and the worry about a leak, thats why I went Durso. That and I am to lazy to drill my tank for larger bulkheads LOL
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer View Post
Yeah I would too but this is a Herbie overflow and therefore the bulkhead is on the bottom and no stand pipe except for the emergency one. This is actually why I wanted a bit of a standpipe but people here were telling me not to have one at all. On RC I have seen most people use a short standpipe for the main drain of the herbie.
No stub at all? You just have a open bulkhed in the bottom of your overflow?

Can't see why you wouldn't have a stub but just lower than your emergency standpipe for issues just such as this. Think tuning would be similiar, you have a pipe run below you bulkhead so just basically just adding an extension above.
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:59 PM
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No stub at all? You just have a open bulkhed in the bottom of your overflow?

Can't see why you wouldn't have a stub but just lower than your emergency standpipe for issues just such as this. Think tuning would be similiar, you have a pipe run below you bulkhead so just basically just adding an extension above.
Well I had a stub with a strainer and a few people told me not to do that. I think I will go back to a stub but forget the strainer. There really is not reason I can think of not to have a small pipe on the bulkhead...Like you said, its really no different than an open bulkhead. I think then I can just goop a bunch of silicone ontop and hope it works. If not, at least the whole tank will not drain if power goes out, just to below the short length of pipe.

Actually Herbie himself has a standpipe for both the regular drain and emergency drain...Not that his is necessarily the best but it seems to have been working for many years now.

Well I have most water drained now. Its going to be hard to get all the water out completely...Maybe I should bust out the wet dry vac!

Last edited by GreenSpottedPuffer; 11-13-2007 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:37 PM
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I found the leak, it was a small gap in the corner. I added a bunch of silicone on the inside of the overflow and outside. It looks ugly but I think it should work.

How long does silicone take to cure? I want to water test as soon as I can.
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:25 AM
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The silicone should be nicely cured tomorrow, if you never put it on real thick. I bond auto parts instantly and put into service within the hr, but the tank, I would wait overnigth
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat View Post
The silicone should be nicely cured tomorrow, if you never put it on real thick. I bond auto parts instantly and put into service within the hr, but the tank, I would wait overnigth
I did put it on pretty thick, so I will wait a few days. I am in no hurry anymore because Crush is gone and now my porc has ich all of a sudden. I have never seen a fish so covered in ich but yet show no other signs of being bothered by it. Its so bad that its ALL over his body, every fin and even a bit on one eye. But he keeps swimming, eating, nothing different about him. He will now go into QT with hypo for 6 weeks. So like I said, no hurry anymore to get this tank up. It will just sit there with no fish anyways!
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:59 PM
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Damn, sorry to hear that. I got a silly Q though, I have been in FW for years, but never got desieases that I know about, but occasionally, a neon will pass etc. What does Ich look like?


My SW tank is on hold for a while too. Financally in trouble ATM. First time in 5 years that the overdraft is maxed out. OOPS my bad. Got carried away buyin tank stuff, and finishing my snowmobile project.
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