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#1
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![]() it is like brown snot but really resemble cyano in form. i am using elos test kits.
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#2
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![]() dying snails? Yup, I'd agree dinos.
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Brad |
#3
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![]() A freshwater trick when battling green cyano is to use antibiotics.
The antibiotic I used was called Erythromycin, it is generally sold to cure ick and other bacterial infections in you LFS. From what I understand of it, cyano is actually more of a bacteria then algea. The antibiotic is not supposed to affect your benificial bacteria because they are generally a different type. Something about being gram positive while cyano is gram negative. I have no idea if it a good idea in SW but it works like a mirical in FW. You could easily find lots of info on using it in fresh water with a quick google search. here is a link to a site I like. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/ Klick on Blue green algea (Cyanobacteria) I would strongly recomend talking to some of the more experianced reefers before using it. Its a pretty common fix in FW so the fact that its not being used in SW kinda tells me that there is probably a reason. Sorry about all the losses. Jon |
#4
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![]() I hate being the bearer of bad news but if it is dinoflagellates, it is really hard to get rid of (ask christy). cyano is a walk in the park in comparison
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#5
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![]() Quote:
This is what the Red Slime remover product is
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Brad |
#6
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![]() I had a dino outbreak in my last tank. Its a real pain in the rear. I always had a feeling it was from the sandbed, it just wasn't "live" enough if you know what I mean. It was full of worms and snails but i think it was lacking in other beneficial bacteria and such. It seemed to just become a detritus trap and fueled the fire more. In retrospect and reading a few recent articles published I had the sandbed idea all wrong.
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M2CW |
#7
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![]() Be careful with Erithromycin. If you decide to use it, I would dose half the recommended amount. I did an awesome job wiping out half my livestock with the stuff at one point.
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#8
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![]() It does sound like dinos rather than cyano. One way to be sure is to try a does of the Chemi-Clean (be sure to follow the directions to a "T"!). If it does nothing then you know its dinos.
Not sure if it's the magic bullet you're looking for but a tactic I came across on RC is an extended blackout period for several days. This is of course in addition to the standard recommendations of feeding/stocking less, employing macro algae/phosphate removers and water changes. |
#9
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![]() i thought about making a blackout but how long could the corals go without light before they died. i dont mind them browning but there is some pieces i really dont want to lose
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#10
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