My New 72"x20"x20" Tank Build

[mark]

Going from the photo, think about this.

Have the top of the sump and ref and about the same height. Inter connect with a large bulkhead as low as you can on the ref (no valve). Assuming the pump is on the far right of the sump with no baffles to the right, the water level in the ref will be the same as the pump compartment. Use a auto topoff to maintain.

Have no baffles in the ref other than a strainer on the bulkhead and maybe some eggcrating in front of the strainer. Negative is if the strainer gets blocked ref overflows so place a second interconnect at the top.

With the interconnect below no bubbles like Untamed said.

Not sure of your planned height in your in the pump compartment but adjust the ref height to max the volume in the ref tub.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by mark

Going from the photo, think about this.

Have the top of the sump and ref and about the same height. Inter connect with a large bulkhead as low as you can on the ref (no valve). Assuming the pump is on the far right of the sump with no baffles to the right, the water level in the ref will be the same as the pump compartment. Use a auto topoff to maintain.

Have no baffles in the ref other than a strainer on the bulkhead and maybe some eggcrating in front of the strainer. Negative is if the strainer gets blocked ref overflows so place a second interconnect at the top.

With the interconnect below no bubbles like Untamed said.

Not sure of your planned height in your in the pump compartment but adjust the ref height to max the volume in the ref tub.

Yeah this is similar to what Untamed has suggested. I just got off the phone with him actually. I am going to have a gate valve though in the line between the fuge and sump to create a bit of a herbie effect. He was explaining to me how it doesnt matter if they are at the same height, having a gate valve will still allow me to keep the water height in the fuge higher than in the sump if I wanted or the other way around. Im not sure if that makes sense how I wrote it but I think I "get it" now.

So there will be a 2" line between the fuge and sump with a gate valve to control the water level in the fuge therefore also controlling how much water flows between the two. There will also be an emergency drain at the top of the fuge, just like a regular herbie.

I will post pics as soon as I get the plumbing father along.

But thank you to all you guys who have helped so far...I couldn't have even gotten this far without all your help!

[untamed]

Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer

...having a gate valve will still allow me to keep the water height in the fuge higher than in the sump if I wanted or the other way around. ...

...it won't ever work the other way around. You won't ever be able to make the fuge have LOWER water level than the sump. You probably wouldn't want that anyway!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by untamed

...it won't ever work the other way around. You won't ever be able to make the fuge have LOWER water level than the sump. You probably wouldn't want that anyway!

No I would not. Wasn't really thinking of doing that either...just trying to say with the gate valve I get more control over the water levels!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Well most of the plumbing is just about done. I will post pics when I have a chance. I have a question though...

My closed loop is mostly dry fitted but I still am not sure about how to do the outputs. I am thinking of just using 2" 90's or 45's that are not cemented so that they can be pointed in most any direction. Any one have any reasons I should nto do it this way. Besides the extra cost, I do not want to use lock line because its output is too small. The other problem I have though is the Eurobracing getting in the way but I think I can work around that. Any thoughts?

[Delphinus]

My 75 has the outputs as non-glued in 90's off a T. Low tech, but it works fine. 5 years in now..

I find Locline isn't all that restrictive though .. I guess the one counter argument is that if you do find it too restrictive, you can add more outputs (via T's) and then you have more flow-aiming options.. And it should be easy to work it around the Eurobracing. Just a thought.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

My 75 has the outputs as non-glued in 90's off a T. Low tech, but it works fine. 5 years in now..

I find Locline isn't all that restrictive though .. I guess the one counter argument is that if you do find it too restrictive, you can add more outputs (via T's) and then you have more flow-aiming options.. And it should be easy to work it around the Eurobracing. Just a thought.

How easy is it to go from 2" T's to loc line though? What is involved? I have never used loc line before actually.

What fittings would I need? For example, I see only 3/4" loc line on J&L's site. Would this even be big enough? I do agree, I could add more T's and that would actually be pretty good.

Would I basically have to use PVC fittings to reduce down from 2" to 3/4" and then use a 3/4" Modular Piping MPT Connector Fitting (threaded) and then the loc line and then whatever nozzle? Sound about right or is there a better way?

Nevermind. I just figured out what I would need to spend to do this right with Loc line and I cannot spend that much more on this tank right now. Its like close to $200 for just the loc line fittings for all my outlets and thats without any PVC fitting I would need! So probably like $225-250...Not happening! I added up everything the other day and Im at about $2000 now...Thats ontop of all the stuff I already had. Thats actually not so much for a tank of course but this was suppose to be a cheaper one! Especially being a FOWLR.

[Delphinus]

You need a bushing to go from 2" to 3/4" threaded (NPT or whatever it's called) and then the Locline just threads into that.

Sorry, I didn't realize your returns are 2", that is quite a size reduction. Although you could think about having more outputs I suppose. You could either plumb additional outputs with the pipe, or you could use Locline Y adapters (e.g., http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=pl-mp034y )

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

You need a bushing to go from 2" to 3/4" threaded (NPT or whatever it's called) and then the Locline just threads into that.

Sorry, I didn't realize your returns are 2", that is quite a size reduction. Although you could think about having more outputs I suppose. You could either plumb additional outputs with the pipe, or you could use Locline Y adapters (e.g., http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=pl-mp034y )

I was editing my post while you wrote this one...Its pretty much out of the question. Im at 8 outlets now and the cost would be far too much. I really just don't like being able to see the 2" 45's coming down into the tank but oh well, for now they will have to do I guess...

[Delphinus]

Yeah, I understand. Maybe just do the 90's and see how they do, you can always change things around down the road if you want. Just keep them as high as possible maybe then you don't see them as prominently.