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#21
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![]() Quote:
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33g fowlr / 20g sump / 400 watt pendant / Euro-Reef RC80~~~~lavendar tang, lemon butterfly, snowflake eel, hawaiian spotted puffer, tomato clown, chomis.. My reef~http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...-/P4300459.jpg |
#22
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![]() What exactly is an RO/DI and where do you get them.....sorry I am a bit new with this stuff. What is a reasonable price for them?
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#23
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They are for filtering your source water. Water passed though a series of carbon & micron filters and then through a membrane which removes most impurities. It can also be run through a DI filter after, to remove anything the ro filter leaves behind. If you wish put reverse osmosis in the search engine and it will bring up lots of RO threads. Most of our sponsers carry them.
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Doug |
#24
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![]() I was just pondering over the last couple of days if it is sooooo bad to use regular water for water changes and only use ro/di for evaporation replacement. I was thinking that the only reason that MOST people see a problem is that they are using 20ppm water to replace the 0 ppm water that evaporated. This would be an upward trend that would end up with a bad case of algea.
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#25
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![]() I do use commercially purchased ro water for water changes and my ro water for top-off. I would not use our tapwater. I only wish it was 20ppm but more like 400ppm.
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Doug |
#26
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![]() Could i test the ppm in my water?
Do aquatic stores sell test kits for that? |
#27
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![]() Quote:
Link: http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=ro-aftdsh
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300 gal starphire custom built in pentagon reef (+90 gal sump on Blue Line 100 HD return pump, 210lb LR, Euro-Reef RC250 skimmer, 2x400W MH, 2x28W compacts, 2xTurbelle classic 4002 pumps & Turbelle Stream 6100 on 7095 Multicontroller, running ZEOvit) Livestock Fish: damsels; sailfin, yellow, regal & naso tangs; ocellaris & tomato clowns; lyretail anthias; foxface lo; flame angelfish corals: a few |
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