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#1
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![]() I have 2 se MH 250 on my tank, its only 44 g but is narrow and 4ft long. I dont have a problem with the heat as I leave my canopy open on top and the back. even when its really hot out I drop a couple of 1L pop bottles of ice in the sump and I'm good to go.
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Starting fresh ... 90 gal, 40gal sump, sundial T5HO x 4, 2 x koralia 2's, ASM G1X skimmer ![]() |
#2
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![]() -so what can u keep with 2-250's in a 44-gallon, cuz my cuzin has 2-250 watt bulbs on his 46-gallon(with a 175-watt ballast!??!!), and he thinks he can keep sps,i think so 2 but i donno
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33g fowlr / 20g sump / 400 watt pendant / Euro-Reef RC80~~~~lavendar tang, lemon butterfly, snowflake eel, hawaiian spotted puffer, tomato clown, chomis.. My reef~http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...-/P4300459.jpg |
#3
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![]() I have heard stories from both sides and LOL they were at the same store 2 different people.(at ocean aquatics)
Wendell(gotta love Wendell)-If you want to keep brown sps corals thats fine. Janet(makes you laugh no matter what)- Yeah you should get color about half way down the coral.
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10g softie and LPS tank(SPS soon ![]() Live stock -1 Pulsing xinia - Green candy cane - green zoas - GSP - Fake percula clown - Diadem dottyback ![]() ![]() |
#4
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![]() -o ya the guy who sold u crabs
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33g fowlr / 20g sump / 400 watt pendant / Euro-Reef RC80~~~~lavendar tang, lemon butterfly, snowflake eel, hawaiian spotted puffer, tomato clown, chomis.. My reef~http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...-/P4300459.jpg |
#5
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![]()
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10g softie and LPS tank(SPS soon ![]() Live stock -1 Pulsing xinia - Green candy cane - green zoas - GSP - Fake percula clown - Diadem dottyback ![]() ![]() |
#6
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![]() I feel like this is a reef lighting version of "Who's on First?"....
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#7
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![]() -isn't it true that u got ur scarlets from ocean aquatics whats the big deal?
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33g fowlr / 20g sump / 400 watt pendant / Euro-Reef RC80~~~~lavendar tang, lemon butterfly, snowflake eel, hawaiian spotted puffer, tomato clown, chomis.. My reef~http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...-/P4300459.jpg |
#8
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![]() If this is a standard 90g with the usual center brace then I think it's a no-brainer - go with at least 2x250W MH and consider T5 supplementation (and preferably use HQI/DE on a non-electronic ballast for the best PAR). If it's going to have eurobracing then you could get away with a 400W with a GOOD reflector (something like a Lumenarc). But even then it's going to lead to a sort of patchy spotlight effect with major dimming on the ends of the tank (which may be a good thing if you're planning on keeping low light corals - you'll have somewhere to put them).
If this is going to be an SPS dominated tank then I think you need to go here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/6/aafeature2 and read all 4 (I think there are 4) parts of this series. Too many hobbyists get brain washed and hung up on the idea of running 400W MH and put far too little consideration into planning appropriate waterflow for SPS tanks. They then become frustrated when their SPS lack color and growth despite having "super bright" lights and having tried every brand of blub in every available kelvin rating.
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#9
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![]() You know, even if most people can't understand it, please watch your language. This is your final warning. Thanks.
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
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