Tank moved, new journal

[Delphinus]

I think you should be able to make it work. I do something sorta similar. I've never actually used my RO for drinking, but I do T off the RO/DI before the DI stage to go into another reservoir which I use for watering my orchids. Some of the fussier orchids need to be watered with RO water but you don't want to use RO/DI for this, just RO. Anyhow so I "T" off the line going from the RO membrane to the DI canister into a rubbermaid type thing with a float valve. So when that thing is not full, the "priority" is to refill it (although some water makes it past the DI so the RO/DI output isn't completely "off" but it is "slowed"). When it's full, it stops filling and all the water goes to the DI.

Basically with the autoshutoff kit, you can have as many outputs as you want, as long as they go to some kind of shutoff (float valve, typically), when they are all closed, the output line will pressurize and close the input valve. If any one of them drops, the output line will depressurize, and the input valve opens and away you go.

Basically it's full automation without any electrical components, it's actually kind of neat.

[Der_Iron_Chef]

Hey, just reading this and it has me interested for when I set up my own RO/DI top-off system. Danny, is this relatively close to your set-up (ie. output from RO t'd off--one for drinking water, one to the DI?)

[danny zubot]

Here's the set up right now. I have the stock RO valve, a "T" to the top off side and the Jug filler, both with their own valves. The Jug side remains closed unless I'm filling, and I added a valve to the top off side to close it off when filling jugs. This is to prevent a back pressure siphone out of the sump. (Wouldn't that taste nasty?)

So the way I see it, regarless of where to water is going, if the system is depressurized the selenoid should open up right? I'm not worried about the auto shut off working when filling jugs because I only do that when I'm around to keep my eye on it. Let me know what you think.

Oh, and I've thrown in a few extra pics of the system just for fun.





How NOT to wire your system.

[danny zubot]

Danny, is this relatively close to your set-up (ie. output from RO t'd off--one for drinking water, one to the DI?)

I've run the line from the filter up to the ceiling, across the room and down to the sump. It's about 25 feet of line.

[Delphinus]

Danny, where did you get the picture of my electrical setup???

Anyhoo, yeah, you'd be fine with what you're describing. Basically as long as you have a valve (in this case probably just a ball valve like the ones pictured on melev's setup that Drew showed there), all you have to do is close the valve when you're done, the line pressures up and the input valve closes. Open it up and the unit turns on, close it up and the unit turns off.

Drew, FWIW, what you have pictured there is exactly how I have mine setup, except that instead of ball valves at the end of each line, I have float valves on reservoirs (since I'm somewhat bad at forgetting that I have water on and tend to create large pools of spilled water - see signature ). I just use the $10 humidifier float valves from Home Depot/Rona/etc.

[danny zubot]

Well, I got the auto shut off valve last night. After several hours of scratching my head and the odd curse word I got it installed and working. The instructions are for the Kent filters and utilize parts existing on them. Long story short, it works, so no more wated water.

[Pescador]

Here's a pic of my RO/DI rats nest with the Kent shutoff, flush kit, and pass-to-drain unit (to prevent TDS creep). I use a 20g can with a float valve as a reservoir like Tony but I'm wasting alot more water. There is another tee to a float valve in a 50g can for saltwater mixing.

[danny zubot]

I'm debating using a resevior on my new sump too.

The problem I'm finding with the direct feed setup, is that the float valve is so sensitive that every few minutes it opens up to fill the sump. It probably only fills like 50 ml at a time, but it takes another minute for the line to build up enough pressure for the Kent valve to shutoff the water. So, although I believe that I'm conserving water, its not as effective as I'd like.

I wonder if there is anyway to rig the float valve to not be so sensitive, so that it takes 200-300ml to trigger instead of the 50ml I estimate?