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#11
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![]() How much do you think consumption of the food would impact the PO4 cycle?
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#12
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![]() I'll put a poop collector on Moo and let ya know....
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#13
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![]() Mitch, They are constantly foraging on the rocks/walls of the tank and Chevy eat's the sand and of course other fish poops
![]() I do feed flake every day as well as mysis. Deb. I'm glad to hear you would never cut back on the feeding of your fish. I did, and, well they are not suffering nor is the tank as a whole. Oh and I do do waterchanges ![]()
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No matter what the morrow brings, inventors keep inventing things. ----------------------------------- Jonathan ----------------------------------- www.cakerybakery.ca |
#14
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![]() Randy did an article a couple of years ago on phosphate, and here are a few paragraphs:
Quote:
Quote:
http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm So how are you exporting YOUR phosphates? ![]() Mitch |
#15
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![]() Mitch said:
Quote:
Quote:
An interesting experiment would be how much PO4 a 2.8 gram (equivelent size to the nori) piece of macro algea can export in the same 24 hour period. Then multiple that by the size of tank.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#16
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![]() Agreed Mitch, it has to go somewhere.
Despite its pitfalls macro algae harvest I think has some benefit. I think one key element is discipline: since sporulation presumably releases back a lot of what was previously absorbed, and since you cannot guarantee the prevention of sporulation, a better focus is mitigation of the damage this would cause (long winded way of saying, if you prune often, there's less of it at any moment to dump goo into the water column). The other pitfall that is maybe not as easy to address is the issue of allelopathy. I've found, particularly with fast growing corals such as Acropora and other SPS, that the mere presence of some macroalgaes such as caulerpa, is enough to to negatively impact the growth of SPS. In my case I've found proximity to be a key factor, so a remote macro harvest area should likely address the issue somewhat. I'm sure it's not a perfect solution and I'm guessing that although running carbon and perhaps other absorption resins may also aid in this aspect, I'm confident none of it is a true "silver bullet" solution. It could just be however, that the positives outweigh the negatives (if properly managed). Although ... it's probably not the worst thing in the world if (at least some of) your SPS doesn't grow as fast as it could. And of course there are other macros that may be less pervasive than caulerpa. Chaetomorpha seems promising to me, I've never heard of any real negatives with that one. The only thing I've found with Chaeto is that it seems to require quite bright light to grow effectively. Under moderate lighting conditions it is a slow grower (at least it has been in my systems, whereas in the past where I had it under HID it was a prolific grower). Anyhow, those are my thoughts for the moment.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#17
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![]() I've added unrinsed mysis to the first post.
Mitch |
#18
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![]() A new experiment might yield some interesting results:
what about soaking the sheet on nori in RO water for some period of time before adding to the display? The test already done could be your control, now maybe soak a sheet for 5 mins and another for 15 mins and then transfer them into a fresh batch of RO water and see what PO4 says. I know nori sheets are always a little flaky/dusty, so it could be that those ragged areas are dissolving quickly. The thicker sections of the nori might not release as much into the water (though admittedly it'll still end up in the poop). I don't know if anyone's mentioned it in this post, but has anybody tried vodka for PO4 reduction? I haven't had enough of a problem to experiment with it yet, but the feedback I've seen on the RC Chem forum has been encouraging. |
#19
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![]() Quote:
Mitch, would you mind to repeat the test with rinsed mysis (and please describe the method used for rinsing, how long, etc. to try to put some kind of quantifier on it)? It would be interesting to see the difference. Thanks
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#20
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![]() Rikko said:
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![]() ![]() What article did you read? I'd like to compare with the one I read.
__________________
THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
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